

All you'll need to get started is a SLR pro or semi pro film or digital camera with a 80mm or 100mm lens and simple studio flash equipment. |
Portrait Head Shots
Getting Started is really quite simple with our Step-By-Step Info and after some experimentation, you'll be shooting like a pro!
If you want to shoot Pro Portrait Head Shots in a studio, be it your own home studio, or a hire studio, it wont happen unless you make it happen. Just get started and even without years or months of practical experience, with our helpful tips and advice, you can make the dream become a reality...
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What You'll Need To Get Started:
1. CAMERA, 35mm. SLR., (single lens reflex), Film or Digital SLR Camera will be fine if possible with a 28-80 zoom lens, or separate prime lenses 80mm., or 100mm., for head shots and 50mm., or wider for fashion shots. (or the equivalent focal length lens if your using a digital SLR type camera).
EVEN BETTER, a 'MEDIUM FORMAT CAMERA' such as:-
Bronica SQAI, or Hassleblad 501CM, or Mamiya 6, (format size 6x6cm.), with a 150mm. or 200mm., lens for head shots and a 80mm., lens for fashion shots. NOTE, using a medium format camera, will give you a better IMAGE Quality, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, it will slow you down and:-
MAKE YOU THINK LIKE A PROFESSIONAL!
2. TRIPOD, use a solid heavy duty one. Check out the second hand market.
3. FLASH. (Studio Flash), a separate studio flash unit. Start by checking the used photo equipment stores, trying to find a good second hand studio flash units. If this sounds a little expensive try making up a Studio Flash unit yourself.
FIRST YOU WILL NEED a Lighting stand, there are some very cheep stands. You will also need, from your photo suppliers, an umbrella, the wider the better, to give a good even spread of light, white or silver lined inside and a bracket to fix to the light stand. Then fix your separate FLASH UNIT to the bracket, facing into the center of the umbrella.
HEY! YOUR LOOKING LIKE A PRO' ALREADY!!
4. FLASH METER. Visit your photo suppliers and check out the new and second hand stock. Ask for advice, it's better to find one that you feel comfortable with.
5. DIGITAL or FILM STOCK. if your using film then 100 ASA, film speed, or equivalent ISO digital camera setting will do just fine in most situations. At this stage, if you are using a film camera, you have to decide if you want to shoot with color print film, color transparency slide film, or even black and white film. I would suggest that you use color negative film and have the negatives transferred to digital on a CD, this can often produce better quality images than if you shot it on a digital camera in the first place.
SIMPLE LIGHTING SET UP For Head Shots
Check out our lighting suggestion diagram for Head Shots Here.
SEAT YOUR MODEL: On a stool, one or two meters in front of a plain background, talk to her, she's nervous too. (Read that line again!) It's Important. Keep a good 'rapport' with your model, she will work much better with you. Did she fix her hair and her make up OK. If possible it's a good idea to have a make up artist and hairdresser on hand to help you. Take a look at our web page about Make Up Artist and Hairdressers, the more attention to detail the better will be the results.
PHOTOGRAPHERS please note: when setting up the camera it should be generally set at the same height as the center of the models face or slightly lower. This will give a more pleasing angle to the shot, unless of course your model has a double chin, then change your model not the camera position!
SET THE CAMERA: On a tripod, noting the comment above, borrow a stand in model to sit in for a few minutes, while you 'GET TO GRIPS' with the lighting set up. At this stage, you will realize what an advantage it was, you spent your 'hard earned cash' on a new or used studio flash unit, with built in modeling lights to give you some idea of your lighting effects.
REMEMBER YOUR STUDIO LIGHTING: Should be set up and ready to use, long Before your model walks on the set.
POSITION YOUR 'BROLLY' FLASH: About 45 degrees angle to the right, (or left), of the camera and also about 45 degrees angle above the models head. (Take care not to have the 'brolly' too high). The distance between the Flash and the subject's head, (for head shot's) should be about one meter flash to subject distance.
PLACE A LARGE WHITE REFLECTOR: To the left, (if your 'brolly is on the right of your model), as close as possible. Next, place a small white reflector under the models chin, to bounce light up to the shadow area under the chin. (A piece of white card, no more than one meter by half a meter in size, is OK). Some photographers work with a second 'brolly' from the same height and position as the camera, set at half power output, as a fill-in to the main 'key light', (not recommended). Sometimes it's a good idea to place an additional flash unit bounced into the reflector as fill in, taking care not to overpower your 'Key Light'.
KEY LIGHT: As it is known, is the 'main light' (brolly), that you use to light your subject.
FLASH METERS: Now, check out what exposure you should use and set the f. stop, (aperture), on the camera. The shutter speed is not so important in the studio, as long as it's no faster than the camera's recommended flash sync' speed, or slower. (It is assumed here, that you have some knowledge on the working of your exposure meter). If you are not so experienced, it would be a good plan to do a test run the day before, allowing you time to process your test shots, to check your exposure and lighting. Most professional photographers use a medium format camera in the studio, which can be fitted with a Polaroid back, allowing them to make instant tests on the spot. Also some Pro Photographers use medium format cameras which have been fitted with a special digital back, check out this info and more on our Digital Photography page. Even if your using Digital, it's still sound practice to run test shots, which you can view on screen well before you shoot your Model.
REFLECTORS: Here's a tip for getting hold of large white reflectors. Go to a builders suppliers and buy two sheets of 8'x 4' ft., 2" inch thick polystyrene. They make the best reflectors and are so light to use and cheep to buy. You can paint the backs of your reflectors in black, which will help to cut down stray light in the studio. Also, it's a good idea to line the edges with a strong 2" inch tape, to protect from damage, and for storage, cover in PVC sheeting and stack at the back of your studio or garage.
OTHER LIGHTS: It's also a good idea to add one or two other lights to your studio set up, (if the budget will allow).
HAIR LIGHT: At the back of the set and to one side, fixed about two meters high, clipping the models hair. This should have a 'snoot' or 'honeycomb' fitted to the front of the light, to prevent stray light falling on the camera lens.
BACKGROUND LIGHTS: Can also be put to good use, to light up, or create effects with the background.
NOW I HEAR YOU SAY: How can I afford three studio flash units! OK. Let me tell you something, some of my best studio shots of all time, were shot when I was working with just ONE LIGHT, but used with great care. With careful use of reflectors and by moving the model closer, and at an angle to the background, you can overcome the budget restrictions. However, if your serious about you portrait photography, sooner or later you will have to invest in additional lights.
IT'S REALLY A MATTER of experimentation to develop your own technique, until you have perfected a pleasing effect and you are more or less satisfied with your results. In the meantime you can drive your friends and members of your family crazy in trying out your new found skills... And then...
SET UP YOUR own small portrait studio in a spare room or garage at home
JUST KEEP ON TESTING until you have mastered the art.
COMMENT ON LIGHTING using light, you have to think like an artist and 'paint' your picture like an artist. Or put it another way, outside in the daylight hours, there is just one SUN in the sky, but all the time it is giving different effects. Diffused light through cloud, or direct harsh shadows in a clear blue sky at midday, soft warm light in the evening as the sun sinks to the horizon, in the city streets reflected off buildings etc., the combinations are endless. So in your studio you can try to imitate conditions that you have observed. Roger Lewis © '2003 - 2009' www.PhotoRog.com
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On the next page: Check Out a Simple Lighting Diagram for Head Shots.
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