Two different high quality cockatiel mixtures are also fed, one being Hagan Premium Cockatiel Gourmet and Ducote's Finch/Canary Entree, their website links are: http://www.parrotplace.com/ and you can find a Hagan distributor at: http://shell.pubnix.net/~mhagen/docu/distribu.html 

I also feed them a pellet, Harrison's High Potency super fine, it is organic and an excellent food. This can be purchased at http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/. If I can't get Harrison's pellets from my vet when I need them, & I have used another organic pellet. It is from Organic Bird Foods, their website is listed below, it is slightly different from Harrison's in that it does not have any soy products or spirulina in it,  http://www.organicbirdfood.com/ .

I also use a good cockatiel seed mix, and clean, fresh drinking water, I use a drip bottle, it’s much cleaner than a bowl type. You must make sure it works properly every day though, a piece of food stuck in the end could stop it from working properly. Fruits and vegetables supplement the seed mix & pellets and I try to rotate the fresh food daily to provide a variety. The seed mix I use is Hagan Premium Cockatiel Gourmet mix and can be purchased from this company, feedingtech.com. About 2 tablespoons a day per bird of seed pellet mix, In addition to the seed mix, I add oat grouts, dried alfalfa & spinach leaves to this mixture, along with egg shells I have washed, dried and smashed. They are also given millet spray regularly as a treat, this is also used for babies weaning to seed, they will eat it for about 1-2 months after weaning. This is also high in fat & should only be used as a treat after the weaning process is finished. Babies will eat a lot of millet when they are being weaned to regular food. All my pairs that are breeding / feeding chicks additionally get Egg Food and Nesting Food. Pairs with chicks also get an additional serving of veggies in the afternoon so they have ample soft food to feed their family. (Pretty Bird Premium Cockatiel mix with small pellets could also be used or a Wal-Mart premium cockatiel mix 8 in 1 with small pellets, or they have several other different premium cockatiel mixes).

All cages should contain cuttlebone, which is replaced frequently. Egg-laying hens that are not consuming cuttlebone should receive supplemental calcium on their soft food to prevent egg laying problems. Putting the crushed egg shells in the food is also a good source of calcium for the parrots.

I recently had a breeder friend experience this sometimes deadly disease, these links are a great place to learn about it:

http://www.shadypines.com/megabact.htm

http://www.oldworldaviaries.com/text/miscellaneous/megabac.htm

http://www.cvm.tamu.edu/Schubot/research/agy.htm

Tasty Edible Flowers for You & Your Pets

• Barbados Cherry - Red berries are edible

• Hibiscus - Flowers and seeds edible

•  Nasturtiums - leaves and flower petals are edible & have a peppery taste.

•  Pansies - flowers are edible.  Flavor ranges from sweet to minty. 

•  Roses - petals and rose hips are edible.  Rose hips are high in vitamin C.

•  Violets - flowers are edible.

•  Marigolds - flowers are edible.  Flavor ranges from bitter to peppery to spicy.

•  Calendulas - flowers are edible.  Flavor ranges from bitter to peppery.

•  Snapdragons - flowers are edible & can be bitter or sweet.

•  Tuberous Begonias - flowers are edible but not much flavor.

•  Day Lilies - flowers are edible and can be eaten fresh or dried.

Plants for the Aviary That Birds Like Common Name Botanical Name Type and Attractant

Zinc toxicosis has emerged as a clinically significant factor in companion and aviary psittacines. Zinc can lead to primary illness or it can be one component of clinical disease. It is important for avian veterinarians and bird owners to have an understanding of the role that zinc plays in health and illness of birds.

Zinc poisoning has been described in many species of birds. In tests performed on cockatiels, they were fed a high or low dose of zinc from galvanized coating. All the cockatiels in the high dose group became severely ill and died or were euthanized within two weeks. Even the low dose group induced significant chronic disease.

The signs of zinc toxicosis are often non-specific and identification of the problem requires a thorough history and zinc testing. It is well known that galvanized after welding wire contains enough zinc to cause disease, so cages should be cleaned with a wire brush and vinegar before placing birds in them. Birds need not ingest flakes of metal to become ill, as zinc may leach from the cage into rainwater, which the birds can drink.

Birds are inclined to play with and chew on toys, pieces of cage and locks, and may become acutely toxic from zinc. With acute toxicosis, birds may vomit, but may stop eating. Voluminous, green stools are commonly reported. Sudden death may occur.

With chronic disease, gastro-intestinal upset may occur. Kidney damage may result in a bird developing increased urination and water drinking. Feather picking is commonly observed in cockatoos with zinc poisoning, but conures also show feather picking frequently, as well. In one study performed by an avian veterinarian in California, 43 cockatoos suspicious for zinc toxicosis were tested, and of those, 37 were indeed ill from zinc, and 34 were feather picking. Ninety seven percent of those birds ceased feather picking and barbering after treatment for zinc toxicosis and environmental correction. Feather picking cockatoos should be worked up for zinc toxicosis. It appears that birds are very sensitive to poisoning from zinc.

Sources of zinc are many. Any white rust found on cage wire should be removed prior to use, as it contains zinc. Food can leach zinc out of cage wire, so aviculturists must be careful to not feed directly on the wire. Although powder coated cages are now quite popular, the powder coating method was developed for lawn furniture and some of these formulas contain zinc. Most cages are safe and contain 0-50 ppm zinc, but some cages can have zinc levels over 5,000 ppm, although this is rare.

Padlocks and some toy hangers have high levels of zinc. It is safest to replace cage hardware with stainless steel components. Galvanized dishes should never be used. Many additives and some treat sticks contain large amounts of zinc. Some paints and varnishes contain zinc and many common adhesives do, as well. Duct tape, kitchen hardware, twist ties, remote controls, flooring and flooring adhesives all may contain zinc. There may be significant amounts of zinc in the adhesive found on paper towel and toilet paper rolls. Birds should never be given these toys to chew up, as they may ingest zinc. Pennies contain zinc, and birds should never be allowed to play with money. (This is one reason why coins should NEVER be thrown into cages with any animals at a zoo!)

Diagnosis of zinc toxicosis is based on the history, physical exam and lab tests. It is important to note that a bird need not have visible metal (from a radiograph) in the gizzard (ventriculus) to be suffering from zinc toxicosis. Time and time again, I have heard someone say that they ruled out heavy metal poisoning by radiographs (x-rays), because no metal was visible. The only way to diagnose or rule-out heavy metal toxicosis is by having the blood examined for the presence of lead or zinc.

There are several effective treatments available. DMSA appears to be an effective oral therapy for zinc and lead. Calcium Versonate is an injectable medication that works well. The GI tract should be flushed to remove any toxins from the system. Rarely, surgery may be required to remove a piece of metal from the GI tract. If the bird is very ill, support care may be required, including fluids, warmth, supplemental feedings and other medications, as indicated.

Zinc toxicosis may resemble many other diseases because the signs are usually so vague and non-specific. It should always be considered in cases of feather picking. It may mimic Proventricular Dilatation Disease (PDD). Recently, there have been advertisements for a holistic treatment for zinc toxicosis (which the pet owner said was misdiagnosed as PDD by her vet). As far as I know, only specific chelation therapy, which chemically removes the metal from the bloodstream of a sick bird, can be used to safely treat heavy metal intoxication.

Zinc is quite common in our environment and it is important that we, as stewards of our birds, take all necessary precautions to prevent them from ingesting toxic metals. Provide your birds with a safe, toxin-free environment and evaluate all cages, equipment, toys and dishes to ensure that they are safe for them.

This information is derived from a paper presented by Dr. Fern Van Sant at the Association of Avian Veterinarian's Annual Conference and Expo, held in St. Paul, Minn. in August of 1998.

WHY IS CARPET AN INDOOR AIR QUALITY PROBLEM?

By: the American Lung Assocation at

http://www.lungusa.org

"Carpet can act as a "sink" for chemical and biological pollutants.

Like many other household products and furnishings, new carpet can be a source of chemical emissions. Carpet emits volatile organic compounds, as do products that accompany carpet installation such as adhesives and padding. Some people report symptoms such as eye, nose and throat irritation; headaches; skin irritations; shortness of breath or cough; and fatigue, which they may associate with new carpet installation. Carpet can also act as a "sink" for chemical and biological pollutants including pesticides, dust mites, and fungi.

WHAT ARE THE SOLUTIONS?

Individuals purchasing new carpet should ask retailers for information to help them select lower emitting carpet, cushion, and adhesives. Before new carpet is installed, they should ask the retailer to unroll and air out the carpet in a clean, well-ventilated area. They should consider leaving the premises during and immediately after carpet installation or schedule the installation when the space is unoccupied. Opening doors and windows and increasing the amount of fresh air indoors will reduce exposure to most chemicals released from newly installed carpet. During and after installation in a home, use of window fans and room air conditioners to exhaust fumes to the outdoors is recommended. Ventilation systems should be in proper working order, and should be operated during installation, and for 48 to 72 hours after the new carpet is installed.

Individuals should request that the installer follow the Carpet and Rug Institute's installation guidelines. If new carpet has an objectionable odor, they should contact their carpet retailer. Finally, carpet owners should follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper carpet maintenance.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

For more information on carpet and indoor air quality, visit the US Environmental Protection Agency Indoor Environments Website at www.epa.gov/iaq.

http://www.holisticmed.com/carpet/tc4.txt

                     **** NOTICE ****

This series of articles is presented with the permission of the 
author, Cindy Duehring (per phone conversation on 10/4/95). For
considerably more extensive documentation on the hazards of toxic
carpeting and on other environmental/health hazards, please contact:

                      Cindy Duehring
                   Director of Research
           Environmental Access Research Network
                       P.O. Box 1089
                Minot, North Dakota 58702-1089
                      (701) 837-0161

                     **** NOTICE ****


                        CARPET CONCERNS

                           Part Four:


          Physicians Speak Up As Medical Evidence Mounts

by Cindy Duehring

An increasing number of physicians have found objective evidence of 
chemical injury in patients who have symptoms attributed to carpet 
exposure.  "At least 120 doctors and other health-care professionals 
from a variety of medical disciplines have signed a letter stating 
that they are seeing a large number of carpet-related health problems 
and other chemical injury problems in their patients," said Anthony 
Pollina, aide to Rep. Bernard Sanders (I-VT).  The doctors submitted 
the letter to Congressman Sanders, who forwarded it to Carol Browner, 
head of the Environmental Portection Agency (EPA).  Pollina stated 
the doctors are especially requesting that a uniform diagnostic test 
protocol or battery of objective tests be established.

"The doctors' letter is important because it confirms that yes, 
doctors involved in clinical p ractice are seeing these problems," 
said Pollina.  "It certainly brings us past the point, we feel, of 
simply debating the animal tests, which were valid as well, but we 
always felt a real serious discussion of this issue needed to 
involve medical doctors who are seeing the patients."

Gunnar Heuser, M.D., Ph.D., F.A.C.P., immunotoxicologist and 
neurotoxicologist, has found consistent, objective evidence of injury 
in patients exposed to new carpet.  "A full workup shows 
abnormalities that are consistent with other types of chemical 
injury, including abnormal neuropsychiatric exam consistent with what 
is typically found in head injury patients, altered natural killer 
cell function, increased TA1 cells of the immune system, autoimmunity 
[meaning that the body's immune system has mistakenly identified its 
own tissues or cellular components as foreign and directed antibodies 
against them] including autoantibodies to thyroid, myelin of the 
nervous system, and anti-nuclear antibodies," Heuser said.

Problems with concentration and memory are frequently reported by the 
people who react to carpet and other consumer products.  Heuser 
stated the single-photon emission computer tomography (SPECT) scan is 
a well established test that provides objective evidence of brain 
abnormalities correlating well with those symptoms.  "We have seen 
hundreds of patients who say low level exposure to the types of 
volatile organic compounds found in carpets and other products is 
making them ill," he said.  "When we have conducted SPECT scans on 
these people, they have consistently shown that not enough blood flow 
is going into certain parts of the brain, and especially the part 
that has to do with concerntration and memory."

Internal medicine and psychosomatic medicine specialist Stephen 
Schacher, M.D., of Seattle, Washington, said he is also finding 
abnormal SPECT scans on patients who attribute their symptoms to new 
carpet, as well as other toxic exposure victims.  Schacher said the 
scans have evidenced brain injuries, especially in the patrietal 
lobe, the deep temporal lobe and the posterior inferior frontal lobe.

This finding is consistent with the SPECT scan abnormalities found by 
environmental and occupational toxicology specialist Thomas 
Callender, M.D. of Lafayette, Louisiana, and neurologist Richard 
Nelson, M.D. of Billings, Montana.  Both have found abnormalities in 
the frontal lobes, temporal lobes, basal ganglia, and thalamus of the 
brain.  Another related test which studies metabolism in the brain, 
the positron emission tomography (PET) scan, has also consistently 
shown abnormalities, according to Nelson and Callender.

Heuser believes the problem is widespread.  "If you take all the 
cases I have seen over the years, of people who say that new carpet 
either at work or at home makes them feel sick, it would come to a 
few hundred," he said.  The worst case Heuser evaluated involved two 
children who spent much of their time playing directly on new 
carpeting.  The children developed epileptic seizures verified by 
electroencephalogram (EEG) tracings.  The seizures stopped when the 
children were no longer exposed to the carpet.

"We believe it was the carpet because while the entire family became 
ill with headaches, the adults and the two children who did not play 
on the carpet did not develop seizures and were overall much less ill 
than the children who did come into close, direct contact with the 
carpet," noted Heuser.

Part of the problem is the large number of chemicals involved in the 
manufacture of carpets.  At least 1,000 chemicals are used, according 
to a toxicologist within the carpet industry. (1)  "I believe this is 
a toxicity problem," stated Heuser.  "Carpet and other consumer 
products are a complex mixture of chemicals.  Very little research 
has been conducted to look at the synergistic and additive effects of 
chemical combinations.  Also, when you combine chemicals, new unknown 
compounds can be formed that can be more toxic than the single 
chemicals."

Consistent abnormalities indicating cognitive deficits have also been 
found when the P300 component of EEG cognitive evoked potentials has 
been studied.  Typically, the P300 is delayed in chemically injured 
patients.  "What we have found in these patients is that it is taking 
longer for the signal to get where it is supposed to go -- and 
sometimes it doesn't even get there -- the signal is lost 
altogether," said Schacher.  Nelson also commonly sees a delayed P300 
in the patients as well as a number of other electrophysiological 
abnormalities with brain mapping.  Because it is considered an 
objective measure not affected by motivational factors, (2) cognitive 
evoked potentials assessing the P300 component have been conducted 
under challenge testing conditions.  First, a baseline reading is 
taken.  Then the patient inhales fumes from a product such as perfume 
at very low levels typically found in real-life situations.

Simply inhaling fumes from a small carpet sample in a jar caused 
severe brain function abnormalities in a patient who was objectively 
assessed in a challenge EEG test measuring cognitive evoked 
potentials.  The pre-exposure baseline reading was normal.  AFter 
inhaling the low-level fumes for only 15 minutes, the patient's brain 
function was significantly altered. (3)

Another patient was challenge tested with a few drops of 
styrene-butadiene carpet adhesive.  Bonnye Matthews had been disabled 
by central nervous system symptoms and occupational asthma caused by 
exposure to fumes offgassing from new carpet loaid in her office with 
styrene-butadiene glue in 1987.  Subsequent low-level exposures to 
petrochemicals found in carpet and o ther consumer products produced 
severe central nervous symptoms including difficulty concentrating, 
memory loss, and balance problems.  Challenge testing with extremely 
low-level styrene butadiene fumes confirmed that cognitive deficits 
were caused by the fumes, leading Schacher to conclude, "Serious 
environmental concern should be given to carpet glue as a source of 
brain damage in previously normal individuals." (4)

Matthews' doctors also combined immune testing with her styrene 
butadiene challenge test.  The tests confirmed that exposure to the 
volatile organic compounds offgassing from the glue caused the 
development of trimellitic anhydride (TMA) antibodies.  Blood was 
drawn prior to exposure and on days 3, 7, 13, and 17 following the 
exposure.  Before exposure there were no antibodies.  On day 7, 
Matthews' blood showed positive IgM antibodies against TMA.  The 
antibody test remained positive through day 17.

Antibodies to TMA have long been demonstrated in industry in people 
who have been exposed to it, so we know it is an acceptable antibody 
test," said immunotoxicologist Jack Thrasher, Ph.D.  "The tests we 
have conducted on people who are exposed to carpet have nearly always 
been positive for either one or both IgM and IgG antibodies to TMA.  
It is also present in the medical literature that these antibodies to 
TMA cross-react to other chemicals that have a similar structure.  
One of the chemicals that it cross-reacts with is 4-vinylcyclohexene 
(4-VC) which is an offgassing component of new carpet. (5)  Certain 
material safety data sheets (MSDS) that I have reviewed, reveal the 
presence of 4-VC in the latex backing of carpet.  In order to be 
reported in an MSDS, the chemical must be present in a concentration 
of at least 1% of the total mixture.  If it is below that 
concentration, it does not have to be reported on the MSDS.  So 
putting two and two together, the TM antibodies we find in 
individuals exposed to carpeting, in our opinion, means that they 
have been exposed to aromatic or other cyclic compounds of similar 
structure."

Thrasher has also found a high incidence of autoimmunity in patients 
who report illness from carpet exposure.  He has tested over 100 
cases of people who report illness from new carpet, including 19 EPA 
workers and over 40 children in a grammar school that had installed 
new carpet.

"We are seeing a common denominator in the immune profiles," Thrasher 
states.  "Those with central nervous system symptoms usually have 
autoantibodies to the myelin of the nervous system along with the 
antibodies to TMA.  Another consistent finding we are seeing is 
elevated TA1 cells indicating a chronically activated immune system.  
I have heard from a number of clinicians who are finding the same 
thing."

One of those clinicians is occupational medicine specialst Grace 
Ziem, M.D., Dr. Ph.H., of Baltimore, Maryland.  "I am seeing the 
presence of autoantibodies and changes in TA1 cells.  A common sign 
of pathology I am finding is the presence of anti-myelin antibodies.  
The presence of these antibodies is very disturbing.  It means there 
is damage to the nerve cells," stated Ziem.

Nelson also runs a battery of objective tests on patients who report 
chemical sensitivities and adverse symptoms from carpet exposure.  
His general findings include abnormalities in both the immune and 
nervous systems.

"Psychometric testing often shows alterations in memory and cognition 
as well as subtle alterations in motor skills, balance, and eye 
movement," said Nelson.  He frequently sees elevated TA1 cells, 
evevated interleukin-1 and interleukin-2 (which are involved in the i 
nitiation of immune response including fever and the stimulation of 
other immune cells), and other immune abnormalities, including a high 
incidence of autoantibodies to the myelin of the nervous system.

Allergist William Meggs, M.D., Ph.D., reports that he is finding 
"markedly inflamed uper airways" in chemically sensitive individuals, 
including those made ill by carpet.  He is seeing an asthma-like 
syndrome termed reactive upper airway dysfunction syndrome (RUDS), 
rhinitis, and cobblestoning of the nasal mucosa apparent through 
rhinolaryngoscopic examination. (6)

Beverly Shutt developed hypersensitivity pneumonitis from new carpet 
installed in her home.  Within 24 hours of installation, she 
developed what she thought was the flu, but it gradually grew worse 
until six weeks later she was in critical condition.  Doctors had to 
perform open chest surgery to remove part of her lung.  Shutt says 
she has been warned by her doctors that her condition is so severe it 
may be terminal.  She must be on oxygen all night and part of each 
day, and her activities in Searock, Oregon, where she now lives, are 
severely limited.

Pulmonary specialist Ganesh Rahgu, M.D., looked at all possible 
causative agents for Shutt's pneumonitis and slowly eliminanted 
everything but the carpet.  Subsequent tests at Anderson Laboratories 
found that air blowing over a piece of Shutt's carpet killed some of 
the mice and produced the same type of pathological changes and 
damage in the mice as in Shutt's lungs when tissue biopsies were 
compared.  Dr. Rahgu is associate professor of medicine, chief of the 
chest clinic and medical director of the transplant program at the 
University of Washington School of Medicine, Division of Pulmonary 
Care.

If the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) continues to promote all 
carpeting as a safe product while downplaying all evidence to the 
contrary [see "Carpet Concerns" Part One, Part Two, and Part Three in 
previous issues of Informed Consent], a number of researchers have 
expressed concern for the most unsuspecting victims, the children.  
"I think one of the dangerous things about carpet is that children 
crawl and play on it, so they have a much greater breathing and 
dermal exposure than adults," stated Ziem.  "And I am deeply 
concerned about the common practice of redecorating nurseries with 
toxic products and putting in new carpet before babies are born.  
That is the baby's 24-hour environment.  It is a very dangerous risk 
to take."

"Little children are lying on carpet in day-care centers while they 
are playing and learning to read," said Mark Goldman, manager of 
Anderson Laboratories.  "There is enough evidence about not just the 
chemical hazards but also the biological contaminants and the 
maintenance cost and problems of carpeting in schools to be able to 
say that schools are much better off without it.  We have heard too 
many tragic stories and have seen too many devastating health 
problems from carpeting not to be profoundly concerned."

Congressman Sanders' office still plans to keep as much pressure on 
the carpet and rug industry as possible.  "We know a number of the 
chemicals that offgas from carpet are in fact dangerous, and they do 
create health problems for people," said Pollina.  "we want to see 
some serious research conducted to look at the specific health 
effects of the chemicals coming off of carpet.  We want to see the 
manufacturers implement the kind of quality control that is 
necessary, and any new manufacturing methods that are necessary to 
see to it that they produce a safe product.  Industry is supposed to 
come back to us with a research plan for testing both individual 
chemicals and combinations of chemicals.  And we will hold them to 
it."

For more information, contact:

New York State Attorney General
120 Broadway
New York, NY 10271

Offers free copies of "Carpet and Indoor Air:
What You Should Know," authored by four state
attorneys general, June 1993

Citizens for Safe Carpet
P.O. Box 53344
Cincinnati, OH 45253-0344
(513) 385-1111

Glen and Sharon Beebe, authors of "Toxic Carpet III,"
provide a support group and information exchange.
The Book "Toxic Carpet III" is available at the above
address for $12.95 PLUS $4.OO S&H.

Environmental Access Research Network (EARN)
P.O. Box 1089
Minot, North Dakota 58702-1089
For a list of carpet-related articles, studies, and
reports available from EARN's photocopying service,
send $1.00 and request "Carpet List."

EPA Union NFFE 2050
P.O. Box 76082
Washington, DC 20013
(202) 260-2383

Anderson Laboratories, Inc.
Box 323
West Hartford
Vermont 05084
(802) 295-7344
http://www.andersonlaboratories.com/
Conducts biological health effects testing of carpet samples.


References:

1.  Duehring, C.  "Carpet Concerns Part II:  Carpet Installers Speak 
    Out As the Medical Evidence Mounts."  Informed Consent 
    (January/February 1994) pp. 8-10, 44-48.

2.  Morrow, L.A.  "Delay in P300 Latency in Patients with Organic 
    Solvent Exposure."  Archives of Neurology 49:315-320 (1992)

3.  Neurometric Assessment Patient Report for E.K. prepared by 
    Richard A. Nelson, M.D., Diplomate American Board of Neurology and 
    Psychiatry, Billings, MT. (January 15, 1993)

4.  Patient report for Bonnye L. Matthews prepared by Stephen A. 
    Schacher, M.D., Psychosomatic Medicine and Internal Medicine, 
    Seattle, WA.  (April 20, 1992)

5.  Pliel, J.D.; Whiton, R.S. "Determination of Organic Emissions 
    from New Carpeting."  Appl. Occup. Environ. Hygiene 5:693-699 (1990).

6.  Meggs, W.J., Cleveland, C.H.  "Rhinolaryngoscopic Examination of 
    Patients with the Multiple Chemical Sensitivity Syndrome." Archives 
    of Environmental Helath 48(1):14-18 (1993).

Pyrrhura molinae

Sub-species: Pyrrhura molinae restricta

Pyrrhura Conures are beautiful, feathered birds with an inquisitive nature and a seemingly endless amount of energy. These entertaining little birds have big bird attitudes and combine the playful nature of the larger, more vocal Conures with the strong, independent, often dominant manner of Macaws. Their disposition is gentle and sassy at the same time. Remember to keep your parrot at chest height and to be the boss!!! The Genus Pyrrhura is made up of a group of seventeen fairly similar species of Conure. These seventeen species range in size from P.calliptera (Brown-breasted Conure) and P.picta (Painted Conure) at 8.5"" to the largest and most unique member of the group, P.cruentata (Blue-throated Conure) at 12"". Each species is colored uniquely, but they do share some like physical characteristics. Among these are size (with the exception of P.cruentata), a broad bill notched in the upper mandible, a long gradated tail, a naked cere and a ring of bare skin around each eye. There are currently eight species of Pyrrhura Conure available to breeders in the United States. In addition to these eight, there are also several sub-species and a few mutations being bred. European aviculturists have been working for years with species, sub-species and mutations that are not available in the U.S today, this is changing. The United States Fish and Wildlife Service has already approved a program that will enable several aviculturists to import species, sub-species and mutations not currently available in this country. As a group, Pyrrhura Conures can be found all over South America as well as Costa Rica and Panama in Central America. They are forest dwellers for the most part and seem most comfortable playing and feeding high in the forest canopy. They are strong, swift flyers, sociable, and sometimes quite raucous. Their wild diet consists of seeds, fruits, nuts, berries, some insects and their larvae.

The Green Cheek Conures (Molina’s Conure), are my favorite conure, such little clowns, and so quite most of the time, with very sweet personalities. Even people who are unsure of parrots can’t help but fall in love with these little gems. They can learn to talk but this seems to be an individual talent and varies with training. I have been around some who talk and talk and there are others that are not as gifted. Teaching them to talk is best done with a continuous play cassette or cd which is played for 2-3 hours while you are away. In any case, a domestic baby green cheek conure is an excellent choice for a pet. These parrots are often mistaken for the Maroon-bellied conure.

This sub-species is 9-10" in length, and weigh anywhere between 60 - 90 grams. It is found in northern and eastern Bolivia, Mato Grosso area in Brazil. A dark green bird. The crown and nape are brown, the forehead reddish brown and the cheeks are green. The feathers of the sides of the neck, throat and upper breast are scalloped with feathers that are pale brown, sometimes tinged with green. Each feather being broadly margined with a pale greyish or silver buff or dull yellow and tipped with dark brown. The outer flight feathers are a teal blue color. The tail feathers are maroon and they have a maroon patch of feathers on the abdomen which can vary with each subspecies. Eyes are dark brown, the iris is brown. eye ring is white, the beak is greyish black and the legs are a dark grey. The mutations very in the colorations, but are all beautiful. Pyrrhura molinae restricta, this sub species has a blue tinge to the cheeks and a prominent blue collar on the back of the nape. The margins of the feathers of the side of the neck, the throat and the upper breast are greyish white. The maroon patch on the abdomen is smaller and duller. There is a teal blue feather on the flanks and under the tail coverts. The length is 9.5 inches.

Food / Water

I keep Harrison’s High Potency Fine pellets in the cage at all times. This is their main food, and kept in a separate bowl. It is an organic whole food and can only be obtained from a veterinarian, you can find a vet who sells this food by doing a search at this website, http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/. If I can't get Harrison's pellets from my vet when I need them, & I have used another organic pellet. It is from Organic Bird Foods, their website is listed below, it is slightly different from Harrison's in that it does not have any soy products or spirulina in it,  http://www.organicbirdfood.com/ .

I also use a good cockatiel/parrot seed mix, and clean, fresh drinking water, I use a drip bottle, it’s much cleaner than a bowl type. You must make sure it works properly every day though, a piece of food stuck in the end could stop it from working properly. Fruits and vegetables supplement the seed mix & pellets and I try to rotate the fresh food daily to provide a variety. The seed mix I use is Hagan Premium Cockatiel Gourmet mix and can be purchased from this company, feedingtech.com. About 2 tablespoons a day per bird of seed pellet mix, In addition to the seed mix, I add oat grouts, dried alfalfa & spinach leaves to this mixture, along with egg shells I have washed, dried and smashed. They are also given millet spray regularly as a treat, this is also used for babies weaning to seed, they will eat it for about 1-2 months after weaning. This is also high in fat & should only be used as a treat after the weaning process is finished. Babies will eat a lot of millet when they are being weaned to regular food. All my pairs that are breeding / feeding chicks additionally get Egg Food and Nesting Food. Pairs with chicks also get an additional serving of veggies in the afternoon so they have ample soft food to feed their family. (Pretty Bird Premium Cockatiel mix with small pellets could also be used or a Wal-Mart premium cockatiel mix 8 in 1 with small pellets, or they have several other different premium cockatiel mixes).

I also make & feed all my parrots a recipe called Birdie Corn Bread, if you would like it you can email me for it at: clqueitz@hotmail.com.

All cages should contain cuttlebone, which is replaced frequently. Egg-laying hens that are not consuming cuttlebone should receive supplemental calcium on their soft food to prevent egg laying problems. Putting the crushed egg shells in the food is also a good source of calcium for the parrots.

Water is given with a vitamin/mineral supplement once a month, remember that you must change the water within 24 hours. Bacteria grows in water even when it has no vitamins added to it.

I also use an organic apple cider vinegar 2 times a month, it kills any unwanted bacteria in the birds. I also use grapefruit seed extract drops, which cleanses the gut out, is given 3 - 4 times a year for about a week or so. The apple cider vinegar is put in their bird bath also, or used on bites or cuts to help them heal and ease pain, willow also works for pain.

These are great tools, and can be bought at a health food store. You only need a drop or two for these small birds. Do not over do it. Apple cider vinegar fights germs & bacteria naturally, regulates calcium metabolism, helps maintain a vibrant body & feathers, keeps blood at the right consistency, aides digestion & assimilation, helps control & normalize weight, helps prevent itchy skin problems & maintain healthy skin, helps retard the onset of old age, and removes toxins from tissues & organs. I find these products to be the best preventative medicine you could keep & use on yourself as well as your pets or breeding birds. Hippocrates', the father of medicine in 400 B.C., treated his patients with this. It's naturally occurring antibiotic & antiseptic properties can't be beat.

I stock up on food and supplies at bird fairs or shows. Seed cost so much to ship because of it’s weight. If you can’t get to a show and you need a good seed or pellet, make sure you have enough seed mix at home to wean the parrot to the new food your buying.

Cage / Towel training

The cage size for a pet is at least 30" L x 18" W x 18" H, . If the parrot is to be in his cage more then out of the cage, a larger one is better. These parrots do better when you do not repress their lively active character. Use natural perches and one sand or concrete perch to help keep their sharp nails in check. Make sure the cage you purchase has a grate for the bottom of the cage, these guys love to lay on their back and play, so you do not want them in their poop. Make sure that they have enough toys to keep them busy, or boredom may turn to feather plucking. Also, they should have enough room in the cage to flap their wings.

I have trained my babies to use a towel for cuddling so that if it is necessary to go to a vet, they will be able to use a towel to hold the bird and do what needs to be done. This can used for toenail clipping or wing clipping, also. I recommend that all parrots have their wings clipped and kept clipped so they do not injury themselves if they do try to fly in the home. A ceiling fan or window can be deadly in some cases.

Breeding / Nest box / Sleeping / Bathing 

In captivity, most species of Pyrrhura Conures make enthusiastic and prolific breeders given the right environment. Proper nutrition is an essential part of any successful breeding program. As anyone knows from working with Pyrrhura Conures, they will eat or at least shred anything that you put in front of them, so it is our responsibility to put nutritious things in front of them.

Because Pyrrhura Conures sleep in their nest box, I leave one attached all year, or use a cozy that is big enough for the 2 of them. The nest box I use for them is made out of 1/4"" plywood and is 12"" tall x 12"" wide x 8.5"" front to back. It has a 3" diameter entrance hole in the top right. The babies are given a cozy to sleep in when they are ready to leave the nest box.

Age of maturity varies with each species. In southern California, most species (with the exception of White-ears) begin breeding preparations in January, with most actual breeding taking place between the start of February and the end of June. Courtship generally involves an increase in preening, feeding each other, nest box modifications and sometimes, excited play that may resemble fighting. Mating may take place on a perch, but often happens on the floor of the cage or in the nest box.

Typical clutch sizes vary between species, but will be anywhere from 4 to 9 eggs (1 approx. every other day) with incubation lasting approximately 21-23 days. In most species, the hen does all of the sitting and hardly ever leaves the nest box until the hatched chicks are 2 to 3 weeks old. The young Pyrrhura Conures leave the nest at around 5-6 weeks of age and are fed another 2-3 weeks by their parents. Hand-rearing or fostering is necessary to ensure a second and even third clutch.

One of the all time favorite things for a Green cheek to do is taking a bath. They simply delight in that. As soon as we put larger water bowls in the cages so they can bathe, they will dive in them, usually both birds together and splash around like little children. They want their baths in the aviary even if it is cool and delight in getting themselves and their surroundings soaked. This is a daily ritual in for these parrots unless it gets too cold and we are worried about them catching a cold. You can easily train you conure to take a shower with you, just make sure the water is not too hot for them and that they will not be in a draft when they are wet. Also be very careful when washing dishes, so your Green Cheek conure does not dive in your hot dishpan.

NOTE: Medical, vets and some other very important information is listed only in the parrotlet care section above. 

NOTE: Some websites listed on my site may have to be cut & pasted to you web browser.

Cockatiels are medium-sized, trim birds that are native to Australia. They are one of the most popular companion birds. They adapt well to captivity and are easily bred housed as pairs in colonies. Although color mutations are highly valued by some aviculturists, the inbreeding required to produce unusual colors has actually resulted in some negative genetic disorders, including decreased disease resistance, reduced life span and hatching defects. Description: grey; breast and abdomen paler, some birds tinged with brown; crest, forehead, cheeks and throat yellow; large orange-red patch to ear-coverts; greater wing-coverts and forward secondaries white; lower back, upper tail-coverts and middle tail-feathers pale grey; outer tail-feathers and tail underside dark grey; skin to narrow periophthalmic ring grey; bill grey; iris dark brown; feet grey.

Female with face and crest noticeably mixed with grey; patch to ear-coverts dull orange; outer tail-feathers yellow on upperside marked in grey; greyish-white patches to inner webs of flight feathers.

Immature as female; bill flesh-colored, adult plumage attained at 3 months; young males with more yellow feathers to head.Habitat: virtually all types of open terrain; prefers areas near water courses and holes; grain growing areas. The cockatiel is indigenous to Central Australia primarily. Their habitats are the Savannah and Grassland areas. Though the cockatiel isn't considered a tree feeder, one of their favorite places is in the eucalyptus trees.Status: common, very common in some localities.Habits: usually in pairs or small flocks; occasionally large flocks of up to several hundred birds when sufficient food available or during seasonal migrations; mostly lands in shallow water to drink; drinks quickly and does not remain at water hole; nomadic; feeds on ground; very wary there; rests on bare branches of dead trees; less conspicuous there; very quiet when foraging; calls mostly when flying; flight swift, direct and even.Vital Statistics: Body length: 12.5 in

Body weight: 75-100 g

Age of sexual maturity: 6-12 mo

Average life span: 4-6 yr, Maximum life span: 32 yrs. A cockatiel's life expectancy ranges from about 10 to 17 years and of course, that depends on how well bred it is and how it's needs are attended to. Sanitary housing, proper nutrition and a safe environment are the necessary requirements to insure your bird a long and healthy life. Diet

Natural diet in the wild: grass and weed seeds, seeds from bushes and trees; fruits and berries; forages regularly in grain and millet fields often causing considerable damage.

Diet

I keep Harrison’s High Potency Fine pellets in the cage at all times. This is an organic whole food and can only be found through a vet.  You can find a vet for this pellet at:  http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/. If I can't get Harrison's pellets from my vet when I need them, & I have used another organic pellet. It is from Organic Bird Foods, their website is listed below, it is slightly different from Harrison's in that it does not have any soy products or spirulina in it,  http://www.organicbirdfood.com/.

I also use a good cockatiel seed mix, and clean, fresh drinking water, I use a drip bottle, it’s much cleaner than a bowl type. You must make sure it works properly every day though, a piece of food stuck in the end could stop it from working properly. Fruits and vegetables supplement the seed mix & pellets and I try to rotate the fresh food daily to provide a variety. The seed mix I use is Hagan Premium Cockatiel Gourmet mix and can be purchased from this company, feedingtech.com. About 2 tablespoons a day per bird of seed pellet mix, In addition to the seed mix, I add oat grouts, dried alfalfa & spinach leaves to this mixture, along with egg shells I have washed, dried and smashed. They are also given millet spray regularly as a treat, this is also used for babies weaning to seed, they will eat it for about 1-2 months after weaning. This is also high in fat & should only be used as a treat after the weaning process is finished. Babies will eat a lot of millet when they are being weaned to regular food. All my pairs that are breeding / feeding chicks additionally get Egg Food and Nesting Food. Pairs with chicks also get an additional serving of veggies in the afternoon so they have ample soft food to feed their family. (Pretty Bird Premium Cockatiel mix with small pellets could also be used or a Wal-Mart premium cockatiel mix 8 in 1 with small pellets, or they have several other different premium cockatiel mixes).

Feed your birds a wide variety of greens and fruits, vegetables, breads, meats and cereals. Be careful with meat,  tear it up into small enough pieces so that your bird will not choke on it. Avoid milk, as birds lack the enzyme necessary to digest lactose and they may get diarrhea. Because of the way they are processed, however, cheese and yogurt can be fed without a problem. You should also avoid alcohol, apple seeds, avocado, caffeine, chocolate, rhubarb leaves and anything high in sugar, fat, or salt.

I also make & feed all my parrots a recipe called Birdie Corn Bread, if you would like it you can email me for it at: clqueitz@hotmail.com. Cockatiels may not eat as much of this as some other parrots.

Feed the table foods in separate containers from their regular food, and remove after a few hours, especially in the heat of summer.

Suggestions:

Dark green vegetables: broccoli, celery leaves, kale, spinach, dandelion greens, collard greens, mustard greens.

Vegetables high in carotene, such as sweet potatoes (cooked), yams (cooked), carrots, red peppers.

Other vegetables: celery, turnips, green beans, peas, corn, tomatoes, legumes (like chick peas and kidney beans), hot peppers.

Fruits (no pits or cores, please): apples, grapes, bananas, oranges, melons, apricots, peaches, plums, tangerines, pomegranates, watermelon, kiwi.

Table food: cheese, eggs, pasta, rice, potatoes, wheat bread.

*******Note that your birds will have looser, more watery droppings when fed more fruits and vegetables.

It is not necessary to add vitamins to your bird's diet when it is eating a wide variety of vegetables and fruits every day.

I a high quality cockatiel mixture, Hagan Premium Cockatiel Gourmet 

www.feedingtech.com Hagen Foods mixtures

Ducote's Finch/Canary Entree could be used, their website link is:

http://www.parrotplace.com/web_store/web_store.cgi or info@parrotplace.com

(Pretty Bird Premium Cockatiel mix could also be used or a Wal-Mart premium cockatiel mix 8 in 1 with small pellets) . About 2 tablespoons a day per bird. In addition I add thistle seed, oat grouts, & dried alfalfa & spinach leaves to this mixture, along with egg shells I have washed, dried and smashed. Please remember that thistle seed is high in fat content & you should only add a small amount to the mixture. They are also given millet spray regularly as a treat, this is also used for babies weaning to seed, they will eat it for about 1-2 months after weaning. This is also high in fat & should only be used as a treat. Babies will eat a lot of millet when they are being weaned to regular food. All my pairs that are breeding / feeding chicks additionally get Egg Food and Nesting Food. Pairs with chicks also get an additional serving of veggies in the afternoon so they have ample soft food to feed their family. My tiels love spinach, romaine lettuce, celery leaves, others are given but not eaten much. I keep Harrison’s Super find pellets in the cage at all times. This is an organic pellet. I have to buy it from my vet. It may take a while for your pet to adjust to a new food, be patient.

All cages should contain cuttlebone, which is replaced frequently. Egg-laying hens that are not consuming cuttlebone should receive supplemental calcium on their soft food to prevent egg laying problems. Putting the crushed egg shells in the food is also a good source of calcium for the parrots.

Water is given with a vitamin/mineral supplement once a month, remember that you must change the water within 24 hours. Bacteria grows in water even when it has no vitamins added to it.

I also use an organic apple cider vinegar 2 times a week, it kills any unwanted bacteria in the birds. Grapefruit seed extract drops, which cleanses the gut out, is given 3 - 4 times a year. The apple cider vinegar is put in their bird bath also, or used on bites or cuts to help them heal and ease pain, willow branches / leaves will also work for pain. These are great tools, and can be bought at a health food store or found in your own back yard. You only need a drop or two for these small birds. Do not over do it. This fights germs & bacteria naturally, regulates calcium metabolism, helps maintain a vibrant body & feathers, keeps blood at the right consistency, aides digestion & assimilation, helps control & normalize weight, helps prevent itchy skin problems & maintain healthy skin, helps retard the onset of old age, and removes toxins from tissues & organs. I find these products to be the best preventative medicine you could keep & use on yourself as well as your pets or breeding birds. Hippocrates', the father of medicine in 400 B.C., treated his patients with this. It's naturally occurring antibiotic & antiseptic properties can't be beat.

What to expect from your cockatiel

Cockatiels are relatively quiet, nondestructive, entertaining birds that are easy to care for. Because they are considered so gentle, they are excellent as companion birds for children. Even though they do not tend to bond with an individual person, they retain better companion bird qualities as a single bird rather than as a pair. However, several cockatiels may be successfully maintained in a single household with patience and attention to each individual. Cockatiels are limited talkers (males may be better), but some individuals are so good at whistling that their tunes are recognizable.

Is Your Cockatiel a Male or Female ?

Immature grey cockatiels have yellow stripes under the primary wing feathers. A male's stripes only go as far as the elbow and he loses these stripes around 9 months of age. Females' stripes go to the body attachment of the wing and never loses them. Head and facial markings are brighter on males. Color mutations (lutino, pied, pearl) may not exhibit the same gender differences in feather pattern. Vocalization is the earliest means of sexing cockatiels - the male has a melodious call; females have more of a monotonous chirp. Cockatiels are prolific year-round breeders. Their offspring are easy to hand-raise, but are reluctant to wean.

Cockatiel Sexing

Some generalities: in most mutations, males have brighter yellow faces and brighter orange cheek patches; males normally sing and whistle more than females; and males will usually be more aggressive than females. These are just generalities, however, and there are exceptions to every rule.

Males faces turn a bright yellow as they mature. Males are also more vocal, while the females are usually pretty quiet. Birds cannot be sexed by examining their breast bone. Some experienced breeders believe they are able to feel of the pelvic area bones and be reasonably sure of the sex. This type of sexing can be guesswork to a novice and shouldn't be relied upon. If the cockatiel you are interested in obtaining is too young to visually sex, genetics or clinical sexing are your best choices. There is no definite way to visually sex lutino cockatiels. If you have a basic knowledge of cockatiel genetics, it might be possible then. If you are not able to sex it genetically, then surgical or DNA blood sexing is your only way to be certain. The only way we know of to visually sex a lutino is to watch his behavior. When a male reaches 3 to 4 months of age, he starts the whistling and the hopping and gliding that is associated with the courting ritual. If you happen to know the background of your bird, it could be possible to sex the bird genetically. Since males are much more vocal than females, if your bird is still wolf whistling and chirping after his/her first molt then it is probably a male. It is possible many times to sex a cockatiel if you have a working knowledge of genetics. Lutino is a sex_linked mutation. We know of no other way besides clinical means. Pearl males begin losing their pearl lacings at about five months. Those spots seem to simply fade away. Though some pearling is occasionally retained, it is more faded and lacks the desired pattern.

What do cockatiels do all day?

Cockatiels are playful and easily amused with simple toys. Because they (especially females) love to chew, toys must be free of toxic metals, hooks, sharp objects or small, easily consumed components. Providing small diameter, fresh-cut branches from nontoxic, pesticide-free trees is suggested for budgerigars. Check with your veterinarian for recommendations on locally available safe trees. Are cockatiels tame?

Young, hand-raised cockatiels adapt readily to new surroundings and handling procedures. They should be exposed early in life to novel situations (car travel, hospital visits, multiple visitors in the household, other household pets) so that they are well adjusted to these events. Some behavior modification techniques may be necessary to prevent biting by wary adult cockatiels.

What to look for in a healthy bird

A healthy cockatiel has bright clean eyes (no discharge), dry, open nares, a clean vent, a well rounded breast, smooth beak, body free of lumps and bumps, Even, reptilian pattern on the feet, and nails of appropriate length, and is in good feather condition, unless molting. The healthy cockatiel doesn't squat, have fluffed feathers and isn't lethargic.

How to Identify Your Bird

Two methods used to permanently mark companion birds for identification purposes are tattoos and microchips (both are injected under the skin). Individually numbered leg bands are unreliable for identification. However, every bird has a unique scale pattern on the feet. Photographs of the feet, which are updated as the bird ages, can be maintained in the bird's record to confirm its identity and to prevent fraud that can occur with other techniques. The facial features may also be unique.

Cockatiel Training

To win the bird's trust will probably be the biggest challenge for you both. We'd start by catching him in a towel. The towel will aid you in controlling him as well as protecting you from his biting. Gently wrap the towel around the bird being careful that the wings are tucked in the proper position and the head free enough to insure there is no obstacle to block it's breathing. With the bird safely wrapped in the towel, sit down with the bird in your lap and begin building that trust by speaking softly and assuredly. You'll need to begin slowly so don't be too eager to rub his head. You will have to repeat this routine several times but eventually he should learn you mean him no harm. We'd recommend you do this every day until you see the results you are looking for. Just remember, he looks at people as his enemy so be patient because it could take a little time. The first stage to finger training begins with teaching your tiel to perch on a stick or dowel. Gently nudge the dowel to the portion of the legs. Repeat this routine until the bird instinctively steps onto the dowel. Next, while the bird is perched on the dowel, offer your finger as a perch in the same manner as you did with the dowel. As with teaching anything, repetition is the key. Some birds, just like people, need to have time to adjust to their new surroundings. It could take days or weeks, it varies with the bird. The younger the bird, the quicker it seems to adjust. Be patient, speak to him in a calm assuring manner, offer him treats by hand and if his wings aren't clipped, they need to be. After the cockatiel feels you are not a threat to him, you'll earn his trust.Why the wings should be clipped

Cockatiels that are allowed unrestricted freedom in the home loose their tameness and can encounter numerous physical dangers or toxins; therefore, wing clipping is recommended. The goal of clipping the wings is NOT to make the bird incapable of flight, but to prevent it from developing rapid and sustained flight and to prevent escape. A cockatiel will require additional trimming 8-12 weeks after the start of a molt cycle.

Do Wing Feathers Regrow? Some of the offspring we have bred have naturally fantastic feathers and others have feathers that always seem soft. It's our feeling that the tendency for good feathers is inherited as is the tendency for bad feathers. We're not implying that your bird is poorly bred, rather it simply may have inherited "soft feathers."

At six months baby cockatiels tend to not care whether they break or fray feathers while they explore and play. Misting 2 to 4 times a week helps to maintain feather condition, while molting or pulling the feathers initiates growth of new ones. If you consider pulling, we suggest you have an experienced groomer or vet do this if you aren't experienced.

When to Clip Babies?

We try to always let the new babies experience what comes naturally for them_ flying. If you are hand feeding them, when they are about 4 to 5 weeks old, they're going to squirm out of your grasp and take off. It's a really neat thing to watch. By the time they are weaned, usually at 8 weeks, they are flying like a 747. That's when we would clip, if they are to become pets.

Nail Clipping

Trimming the nails is necessary only when the nails interfere with the birds perching or when the nails have become too long and presents the possibility of them snagging on the cage and other perching or landing areas. We do not recommend the use of sandpaper covered perches, but rather an assortment of different size hardwood perches and one of the beak and nail conditioners such as a lava rock; both available at your neighborhood pet shop. There are a lot of different things available today, such as cement or sea shell perches. Trimming is not difficult but should be done by an experienced bird person to prevent injury.

How to Keep Your Cockatiel Healthy, Happy and Safe !

1. be as large as possible.

2. be clean, secure, safe and easy to service.

3. be constructed of durable, nontoxic material.

4. contain variable-sized perches made of clean, nontoxic pesticide-free tree branches.

5. have food and water containers placed at opposite ends of the enclosure.

6. avoid having perches located directly over food containers.

7. offer occasional opportunity for protected outdoor exposure to fresh air, sunlight and exercise.

Cages

Cages without grates on the bottom need to be cleaned more often as birds should not be allowed to walk in their droppings. This is especially important as cockatiels, by nature, are ground feeders. The best size for your pet is 30" x 18" x 18". If you plan on breeding you will need a much bigger cage, a

30" x 18" x 36" high should be used. I layer my paper on the bottom so I can remove a layer each day.Toys

Cockatiels need toys that will challenge their minds and their bodies. Without toys to chew, hang on and swing from, your cockatiel will grow obese and lethargic. Remember, in the wilds of Australia, cockatiels are nomadic creatures, flying freely. Confinement in cages is unnatural to their sleek physiques; they need toys which will provide them with exercise and fun.

Things to avoid

Longs strands of cotton or nylon which could unravel. I once rescued a baby cockatiel which had entangled its neck in strands of cotton rope at the top of a swing. Toy hangers which could trap their toe or beak. Cockatiels play with EVERY part of a toy. The key ring type of hanger can entrap a cockatiel's beak or toe, causing serious injury and deformity. Small "Quick_links" are the best types of toy hangers I have found. Anything without a non_toxic label. Costume jewelry can contain lead which can cause lead poisoning. Treated wood (varnish, lacquer, or paint) or treated leather. Make sure the toys contain natural products. If you wouldn't let a baby chew on it, why would you let a cockatiel? Use common sense when shopping for toys (but shop often)! Your cockatiel will love you for it! Baths Tiels tend to give off a lot of white dander. You can reduce this by purchasing a new spray bottle and use this for plain water only. They like to have a bath often and believe it or not, they like the water really cold. If your teil does not like to be sprayed, you can use a container with water and let it bathe by itself. Bathing moderately can be done daily. If your bird isn't used to a bath, it may take a little while before it becomes accustomed to it. Try placing a shallow bowl of water in the cage and see if it will bathe itself. If not, tepid water sprayed from a plastic bottle works great. One warning, don't let the bird chill.

Cockatiel Talking

Cockatiels usually begin to talk at around 8 to 10 months of age. Male cockatiels are generally the better talkers even though it is not unheard of for some females to learn to talk as well. As vocal as your bird is now, it will probably be an excellent student. Generally males are the best talkers, though occasionally we hear about a female that does quite well. It has been our experience that birds begin listening, learning, and filing it away early on. It seems as though they absorb words and at no specific time, they just let it out.

When trying to teach a cockatiel to talk, we advise you take the bird into a room that has little or no distractions, trying to get his undivided attention. Begin with simple words such as hello or repeat the bird's name unless his name is multi_syllable. Repetition and rewarding the bird for his efforts works best. You don't mention how old your 'tiel is and that could be important. The older the bird, the harder it may be for him to learn to mimic. Not all cockatiels learn to talk but hopefully, if you are patient, one day when you least expect it, he will. Cockatiel's mimicking of sounds usually aren't as clean and crisp as the larger talking birds, but clarity does vary with each bird. Though the cockatiel is one of the most popular pet birds, they are not one of the better talking birds. We mention this only to give you a real idea of what you can expect. We have several birds that have learned to repeat words, words they oftentimes have heard from other birds. As with any pet, whether it's a dog or a bird, repetition is the key to success. The easier the word is to pronounce, the easier it may be to repeat. Start with repeating a word such as "hello" or "pretty bird" trying to keep it as simple as possible. As the bird matures it may surprise you by saying something it has learned on it's own.

Cockatiel "Quirks"

Cockatiels are generally very happy-go-lucky birds. As with people, they all have their individual personalities and "quirks" but most (but not all!) love to have their heads and or cheeks rubbed. Without a doubt all my tiels love attention; some of them demand it! The males are generally much more vocal than the females. Cockatiels may pick up the ability to talk, but if you are set on a talking bird the cockatiel is not the best choice. Cockatiels, when they do vocalize, are not as easily understood as some other parrot species. The males tend to whistle quite a bit whereas the females tend to "chirp" more so.

Cockatiels can be prone to night frights. I've read that Lutino cockatiels are particularly susceptible to this. Night frights occur when a bird is startled (during the night!) and begins thrashing uncontrollably about the cage. This is very dangerous as the bird can easily injure themselves by getting wings caught in the cage bars or wrapped up in a toy. If there are multiple birds in the cage it is likely that all will be startled if one starts thrashing about. In my experience the best thing you can do if this happens is to immediately remove any covering that may be over the cage and get the lights on ASAP so that the birds can see their surroundings. If there are any broken blood feathers those need to be attended to; do not be surprised if your bird is not their normal self, Chic Chic bit me hard once after a nightfright - they tend to act shocked for a little while afterwards. Just talk gently to them and try to calm them down. I do cover my birds cages at night with a sheet so they are not bothered by stray lights but I do not completely cover their cages - I make sure that there is a nightlight nearby and that there is just enough light let in so that they can see, but not so that is disturbing to their sleep. I do use a very dark colored sheet to cover their cages but use a clothes pin to hold the sheet to the cage in such a way as to let in some light. I also try not to introduce new toys into their cages at the end of the day so as they are not startled by something unfamiliar to them. My tiels do not frequently have night frights - they are much more prone to it if they are in unfamiliar surroundings or cages.

Breeding behavior

breeding season mostly between August and December, but virtually possible all year; depends on favorable climatic conditions; several breedings one after another possible; prefers to nest in hollows in branches of tall, dead trees; territorial during breeding; 2 to 5 eggs; incubation 19 days; both parents brood; young leave nest at 5 weeks; egg measures 24.5 x 19.0 mm (0.96 x 0.75 ins).

Breeding in aviculture

very readily breeds; no fixed time for breeding in indoor accommodation; characteristic display song; sideways tripping and flight with sudden turns during display; male seeks nest box; eggs laid every two days; clutch averages 4 to 5 eggs, occasionally 8; incubation 18 to 19 days; fledging period 33 days; young fed for further three weeks by parents.

NOTE: Medical, vets and some other very important information is listed only in the parrotlet care section above. 

NOTE: Some websites listed on my site may have to be cut & pasted to you web browser.

Indian Ringneck Parakeet

The feeding procedure for Ringneck’s is relatively simple. They are not primarily seed eaters in the wild, but seek out fruit and vegetables in season such as grain, fruit, berries, nectar, blossoms and some seed. I use organic Harrison’s High Potency Fine pellets, which can only be obtained from a veterinarian. This is there website to fine one in your area, http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/. If I can't get Harrison's pellets from my vet when I need them, & I have used another organic pellet. It is from Organic Bird Foods, their website is listed below, it is slightly different from Harrison's in that it does not have any soy products or spirulina in it,  http://www.organicbirdfood.com/ . Hagen also has a very good pellet, Tropican Lifetime, it can be obtained from feedingtech.com.

My ringneck’s eat more fruits than veggies, but are the best eaters I have. For the owner of a single pet, small cans of similar food, or leftovers from your own meals, can be combined with available fresh fruits with equally good results. Corn on the cob, fresh or thawed frozen, is a great favorite and can be fed on a regular basis. I also use a good parrot seed mix, and clean, fresh drinking water, I use a drip bottle, it’s much cleaner than a bowl type. You must make sure it works properly every day though, a piece of food stuck in the end could stop it from working properly. Fruits and vegetables supplement the seed mix & pellets and I try to rotate the fresh food daily to provide a variety. The seed mix I use is Hagan Premium parrot mix and can be purchased from this company, feedingtech.com. About 2 tablespoons a day per bird of seed pellet mix, In addition to the seed mix, I add oat grouts, dried alfalfa & spinach leaves to this mixture, along with egg shells I have washed, dried and smashed. They are also given millet spray regularly as a treat, this is also used for babies weaning to seed, they will eat it for about 1-2 months after weaning. This is also high in fat & should only be used as a treat after the weaning process is finished. Babies will eat a lot of millet when they are being weaned to regular food. All my pairs that are breeding/feeding chicks additionally get Egg Food. Pairs with chicks also get an additional serving of veggies in the afternoon so they have ample soft food to feed their family.

A major part of the diet is fresh food. The following foods are fed daily, 365 days per year in rotation: Fresh broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, spinach, romaine lettuce, celery leaves, zucchini or yellow squash, and cooked sweet potato is chopped and given. Sprouted alfalfa or beans can be grown & used, also. Sprouts must be refrigerated to prevent spoilage and must be used within a few days. The fresh food portion of the diet is often supplemented with other vegetables and fruits in season such as: fresh corn on the cob, greens, apples, oranges (limited citrus fruits), grapes, mangos, peaches, pears, melons, berries, cherries, and kiwi. A frozen mixed vegetable consisting of corn, peas, carrots, lima beans, and green beans can be used also, these are not cooked, but rather are placed in a colander and left to defrost and then refrigerated. Brown rice, plain or vegetable pasta can be cooked & given also. They love garlic bread, or garlic flavored salad croutons. Here again, these are used as treats. They also love triskets shredded wheat crackers, low salt brand!!!

You should also avoid alcohol, apple seeds, avocado, caffeine, chocolate, rhubarb leaves and anything high in sugar, fat, or salt.

I also make & feed all my parrots a recipe called Birdie Corn Bread, if you would like it you can email me for it at: clqueitz@hotmail.com.

Tidbits from the table are fine for your pet if you are very selective in what you offer. Avoid fatty or sugary foods, candy, coffee, and alcoholic or carbonated beverages. Very small amounts of cheese, or lean meats such as white meat of chicken or turkey, are healthful treats. For your Ringneck, a "small amount" means only about one half of a teaspoon of such foods each day. Fruits and vegetables are unlimited and should be substituted for sweets. They especially like corn on the cob and occasional unsalted pistachios.

Water is given with a vitamin/mineral supplement once a month, remember that you must change the water within 24 hours. Bacteria grows in water even when it has no vitamins added to it.

I also use an organic apple cider vinegar 2 times a month, it kills any unwanted bacteria in the birds. I also use grapefruit seed extract drops, which cleanses the gut out, it is given 3 - 4 times a year for about a week. The apple cider vinegar is put in their bird bath also, or used on bites or cuts to help them heal and ease pain, willow also works for pain.

These are great tools, and can be bought at a health food store. You only need a drop or two for these birds. Do not over do it. Apple cider vinegar fights germs & bacteria naturally, regulates calcium metabolism, helps maintain a vibrant body & feathers, keeps blood at the right consistency, aides digestion & assimilation, helps control & normalize weight, helps prevent itchy skin problems & maintain healthy skin, helps retard the onset of old age, and removes toxins from tissues & organs. I find these products to be the best preventative medicine you could keep & use on yourself as well as your pets or breeding birds. Hippocrates', the father of medicine in 400 B.C., treated his patients with this. It's naturally occurring antibiotic & antiseptic properties can't be beat.

I stock up on food and supplies at bird fairs or shows. Seed cost so much to ship because of it’s weight. If you can’t get to a show and you need a good seed or pellet, make sure you have enough seed mix at home to wean the parrot to the new food your buying. I list shows in my state and surrounding states on my species web site is at http://myweb.ecomplanet.com/QUEI7705.

GROOMING

This species is capable of very strong and rapid flight. With full flight feathers they can shoot past one with a rushing sound and scarcely be seen before they are gone. It is therefore particularly necessary to pay close attention to keeping the primary flight feathers, at least the first six-seven, regularly clipped to prevent loss of or permanent injury to our pets.

The Red Bellied is similar in shape and a slightly larger bird than the Senegal and the Brown headed but here the sexes are sexually dimorphic (that means different). A green/grey colored bird with green under parts except for the cock bird which has as its name suggests "a deep orange belly" (who comes up with these names) ? It is also differentiated from the other 2 by having red iris not yellow as in both the Senegal and the Brown headed.

There are possibly two sub species of this bird:

• Poicephalus rufiventris rufiventris: The nominate, its range is from Ethiopia, south to north eastern Tanzania.
  
• Poicephalus rufiventris pallidus: This is supposed to be paler than the nominate race and comes from Somalia into Ethiopia but possible examples of this have not been identified satisfactorily as yet.

There is also a particular feature of some examples of Red Bellied parrots, that has not yet been satisfactorily answered. That is, some have paler eye rings than others, this is being investigated by members of the Poicephalus Section. As to whether this is, the pallidus subspecies or not, or even yet another subspecies.

Habitat

Lives in dry woodland and the open savannah

Suitability as pets

As with the other poicephalus, these birds make very good pets. For some reason, many cock birds I have seen have been good talkers, but with only a limited vocabulary. I have however never heard a hen speak but I can see no reason why this is so. I don't feel at present, because of the situation regarding the shortage of cock birds that they should be kept as solitary birds. So if you do want one of these birds as a pet consider a hand reared hen and teach it to speak and let me know.

Diet

The feeding procedure for Red bellies is relatively simple. They are not primarily seed eaters in the wild, but seek out fruit and vegetables in season such as grain, fruit, berries, nectar, blossoms and some seed. I use organic Harrison’s High Potency Fine pellets, which can only be obtained from a veterinarian. This is there website to fine one in your area, http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/. If I can't get Harrison's pellets from my vet when I need them, & I have used another organic pellet. It is from Organic Bird Foods, their website is listed below, it is slightly different from Harrison's in that it does not have any soy products or spirulina in it,  http://www.organicbirdfood.com/ . Hagen also has a very good pellet, Tropican Lifetime, it can be obtained from feedingtech.com.

My red bellies eat more fruits than veggies. For the owner of a single pet, small cans of similar food, or leftovers from your own meals, can be combined with available fresh fruits with equally good results. Corn on the cob, fresh or thawed frozen, is a great favorite and can be fed on a regular basis. I also use a good parrot seed mix, and clean, fresh drinking water, I use a drip bottle, it’s much cleaner than a bowl type. You must make sure it works properly every day though, a piece of food stuck in the end could stop it from working properly. Fruits and vegetables supplement the seed mix & pellets and I try to rotate the fresh food daily to provide a variety. The seed mix I use is Hagan Premium parrot mix and can be purchased from this company, feedingtech.com. About 2 tablespoons a day per bird of seed pellet mix, In addition to the seed mix, I add oat grouts, dried alfalfa & spinach leaves to this mixture, along with egg shells I have washed, dried and smashed. They are also given millet spray regularly as a treat, this is also used for babies weaning to seed, they will eat it for about 1-2 months after weaning. This is also high in fat & should only be used as a treat after the weaning process is finished. Babies will eat a lot of millet when they are being weaned to regular food. All my pairs that are breeding/feeding chicks additionally get Egg Food. Pairs with chicks also get an additional serving of veggies in the afternoon so they have ample soft food to feed their family.

A major part of the diet is fresh food. The following foods are fed daily, 365 days per year in rotation: Fresh broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, spinach, romaine lettuce, celery leaves, zucchini or yellow squash, and cooked sweet potato is chopped and given. Sprouted alfalfa or beans can be grown & used, also. Sprouts must be refrigerated to prevent spoilage and must be used within a few days. The fresh food portion of the diet is often supplemented with other vegetables and fruits in season such as: fresh corn on the cob, greens, apples, oranges (limited citrus fruits), grapes, mangos, peaches, pears, melons, berries, cherries, and kiwi. A frozen mixed vegetable consisting of corn, peas, carrots, lima beans, and green beans can be used also, these are not cooked, but rather are placed in a colander and left to defrost and then refrigerated. Brown rice, plain or vegetable pasta can be cooked & given also. They love garlic bread, or garlic flavored salad croutons. Here again, these are used as treats. They also love triskets shredded wheat crackers, low salt brand!!!

You should also avoid alcohol, apple seeds, avocado, caffeine, chocolate, rhubarb leaves and anything high in sugar, fat, or salt.

I also make & feed all my parrots a recipe called Birdie Corn Bread, if you would like it you can email me for it at: clqueitz@hotmail.com.

Tidbits from the table are fine for your pet if you are very selective in what you offer. Avoid fatty or sugary foods, candy, coffee, and alcoholic or carbonated beverages. Very small amounts of cheese, or lean meats such as white meat of chicken or turkey, are healthful treats. For your Ringneck, a "small amount" means only about one half of a teaspoon of such foods each day. Fruits and vegetables are unlimited and should be substituted for sweets. They especially like corn on the cob and occasional unsalted pistachios.

Water is given with a vitamin/mineral supplement once a month, remember that you must change the water within 24 hours. Bacteria grows in water even when it has no vitamins added to it.

I also use an organic apple cider vinegar 2 times a month, it kills any unwanted bacteria in the birds. I also use grapefruit seed extract drops, which cleanses the gut out, it is given 3 - 4 times a year for about a week. The apple cider vinegar is put in their bird bath also, or used on bites or cuts to help them heal and ease pain, willow also works for pain.

These are great tools, and can be bought at a health food store. You only need a drop or two for these birds. Do not over do it. Apple cider vinegar fights germs & bacteria naturally, regulates calcium metabolism, helps maintain a vibrant body & feathers, keeps blood at the right consistency, aides digestion & assimilation, helps control & normalize weight, helps prevent itchy skin problems & maintain healthy skin, helps retard the onset of old age, and removes toxins from tissues & organs. I find these products to be the best preventative medicine you could keep & use on yourself as well as your pets or breeding birds. Hippocrates', the father of medicine in 400 B.C., treated his patients with this. It's naturally occurring antibiotic & antiseptic properties can't be beat.

I stock up on food and supplies at bird fairs or shows. Seed cost so much to ship because of it’s weight. If you can’t get to a show and you need a good seed or pellet, make sure you have enough seed mix at home to wean the parrot to the new food your buying. I list shows in my state and surrounding states on my species web site is at http://myweb.ecomplanet.com/QUEI7705.

Breeding in captivity

It is commonly accepted like the Senegal and Brown Headed, that these birds will not breed until they are about 3 to 4 years of age. The Red Bellied like most of the Poicephalus species breeds in our winter months. They lay normally 4 eggs. They lay with a two day interval between eggs. Incubation is carried out by the hen and lasts for about 27 to 28 days dependent on the ambient temperature. Commencement of the incubation is usually after the 2nd egg has been laid. The young leave the nest at approximately 9 weeks and are independent at about 12 to 14 weeks. The nest box size I can recommend is a bit larger than the Senegal at 24" high by 10" square again filled with a wood shaving and peat mixture of three parts shavings to one part peat by volume.

Accommodation

Similar to the Senegal, they can be kept in cages or aviaries. Inside or outside or as I prefer a combination of the 2 with an outside aviary connected to a suspended inside cage so the birds have a choice. They are fed inside. This keeps most of the food remnants in the inside accommodation so making cleaning easier. This also keeps the food dry and uncontaminated and helps to reduce the problems associated with vermin etc.

Sexing

Easy, in adult plumage the cock has a orange belly, the hen has a green one. Young birds of both sexes have an orange wash to the belly. But an experienced breeder of these birds will be able to sex them for you.

The Red-Bellies (Poicephalus rufiventris): The clowns of the group.

The Red-Bellies are the third most common of the Poicephalus. They are happiest playing and acting silly. Red-Bellieds are show-offs, and that includes in front of company. They are one of the only parrots that don't just clam up, and will talk (even jabber) in front of strangers. Of the Poicephalus, I think they are one of the best talkers.

Red-Bellies can play with anything. In a cage with no toys, I believe they would make them up. I have seen them playing and attacking something in their flights and walk over to investigate and find nothing there. They play sometimes just to get your attention, and playing dead is one of their favorite attention getters, as well as standing on their heads. They will do just about anything to get in on the activity.

Red-Bellies have gotten a reputation of being on the nippy side. I believe early on we had a lot of insecure breeders and that nervousness became apparent in the babies. Red-Bellieds had a harder time coming through quarantine, and were pretty nervous birds. I think the breeders now are long time captives and have finally started to settle down. I do not see as much nippiness as I once did.

I recommend them for adult families, not small children.

All the Poicephalus are known for their quiet playfulness, their beautiful coloration, and their suitability for apartment living as companion birds. They're not great talkers like the African Grey or Timneh, but can learn a reasonable vocabulary, depending on the individual bird and the owner's willingness to spend time training. Wild caught birds are very shy and don't make very good pets, but hand-fed babies are excellent companions.

All the Poicephalus species make good "Home Alone" birds for those who want a parrot but who can't spend lots of time (more than an hour or so per day) with their companions; or where the bird will spend the day alone while you're at work. How much time can the bird be alone and caged? A day or two or a long weekend is OK but much longer isn't good. For one thing there's the matter of food and water which won't last much more than that without refilling.

Just weaned hand-fed babies from a breeder are preferable to pet shop stock. Not that pet shops are bad sources of birds, but buying from a breeder, you'll know exactly what you're getting in terms of health, age and degree of imprinting on humans.

Vocalization

The Poicephalus aren't noted screamers or otherwise loud or noisy. Most of their sounds are low key whistles, chirps, squeaks, and assorted chattering. Cockatiels are often more noisy (and more obnoxiously so) than Senegals, Meyers, or Jardines.

Activities

Poicephalus love acrobatics - hanging, swinging, and climbing. Toys such as chopsticks, plastic film cans, Olympic Rings, and a bell on a string are favorites. They love to cuddle, climbing into your lap, shoulder sitting, and otherwise tucking their head into your neck. All love head scratching, and will often lie on their back in your hand, totally limp, while you scratch away. All them love bathing, and will usually do so on their own a couple of times per week if you provide them with a bath; if you don't, they may just use their water bowl! Some individuals can be potty trained, and one reader noted that his companion was self-trained in that regard. Generally the Poicephalus get along well with other companion birds of diverse species without displaying the jealously common to many species in that situation; but occasional individuals can be bullies.

Cages

All but the Cape Parrot can be nicely housed in an 18"x 18" x 24" cage. Bar spacing of 1" or 7/8" is preferred; 1/2" or 5/8" spacing is too close and will cost your pet ragged tail feathers. A good rule of thumb on cage size is that smallest dimension should be 1.5x the wingspan of the resident. That way there's room to flap without bashing into walls. However, "the bigger the better". The cage should have a floor grate, and should be cleaned every other day at least. Poicephalus seem to like to nibble a bit of food from their bowls then drop it to the floor to save as a "scavenged" snack later; so cage cleanliness is important to prevent them from eating fouled or stale/moldy food.

Severe Macaw

Aside from the Red-fronted macaw, the Severe, also known as the Chestnut fronted Macaw, is the largest of the mini- macaws. It is the only mini that has feathers on its facial patch, increasing its similarity to the larger macaw species. It reaches a total length of about 18 inches, about half of which is contributed to the length of the tail.  The body size is about the same as a Congo Grey, but slimmer in build.

As with many of the mini macaw members, the Severe must be well socialized as a youngster to prevent him from becoming a "one person bird". They are a playful, animated bird that can be very "vocal" if spoiled. Their excitement and curiosity with their environment reminds me very much of a child in a toy store that can't contain his excitement. Having the capability to be excellent talkers, their vocal tendencies can be diverted into words instead of noise.

The youngsters, as with most parrots, also be well disciplined to teach them manners and acceptable behavior. Their excitable, animated nature can also cause them to be nippy if it is not discouraged when young. As a pet, the Severe can make a delightful and entertaining addition to your family.

• Length

      19 inches, up to 22 in some cases. They have an average lifespan

• Sexing

      Undeterminable by appearance. However, Males of this species tend to be heavier and larger than females, they tend to be broader across the shoulders and slightly longer... although this is not always the case.

• Origin

      Northern S. America

• Trainability

  This bird is more easily trained than the larger macaws, and is more often recommended as a house pet than the other macaws.

• Loudness

  Can be loud.

DISCLAIMER: The information contained here is the opinion and experience of this breeder. These opinions have been formed through my own observations, reading publications, and networking with other breeders. The information is intended solely as a basic guide and can be changed by anyone based upon their individual preferences and experiences with your own birds.