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Bioluminiscence in Fajardo
 
   A visit to the bioluminiscent lagoon in las Cabezas de San Juan Natural Reserve in Fajardo is really an unforgettable experience and a very educational one as well. It is also an "enlightening" adventure.
 
   Our tourist guide drove us from San Juan to Las Croabas, Fajardo, where the tour really begins. Our group included tourists from Pennsylvania and New York, USA, a couple from Germany, and myself. After receiving the basic instructions on "kayaking", being told about the route to follow amidst the mangroves and getting briefed about what awaited us at our destination, at 9:00PM we started rowing aboard 5 kayaks. A moonless night... just perfect for visiting the bioluminiscent bay in las Cabezas de San Juan.
 
   We rowed until we got to the canal that leads to the lagoon. The dense darkness can almost be touched with the fingertips. When the eyes get used to it the silhouettes of the tree branches become visible. It's as though we've entered a tunnel. In the tranquility of the mangrove an insomniac heron caws in the distance. The shadows are sprinkled with the nocturnal chants of crickets and the always-hidden but always- presnt coquís. 
 
   Less than a minute after entering the canal I noticed as though the bottoms of the kayaks were surround by a sort of a liquid neon light undulating in the water as moved on. With the movement of each oar they turned into torches when their tips seemed to burst into shining flames as they touched the water. The shooting stars and tiny comets displacing themselves in the dark waters were small fish swimming away from the oars and leaving a track of dinoflagelates alight as they escape.
 
   'Just wait til we get to the lagoon', the guide told me after I expressed my amazement. He hadn't finished his comment when in front of me a large liquid valley spreaded in front of me. It's surrounded by mangroves and the centennial lighthouse blinked at us from the hill where it stands.
 
   We got to the lagoon. On its surface shone the crest of small waves formed by a gentle breeze that blew from the east, fresh and caressing.
 
   We rowed to the center of the lagoon and, previous to the chat the guide would offer, everyone took a dip in the calmed,  warm waters.
 
   ¿How can I describe the effect of our bodies on the waters as we swam in them?
 
   When someone takes a dive the body leaves a track on the water similar to a nautical milky way. When one swims a luminous and brilliant effervescence of diminute bluish-greenish pearls miraculously occured even with the movement of one finger. The water is so dense that it's extremely easy to float on your back. With your ears submerged you can hear the crackling sound of the microorganisms as they produce the bioluminiscence. They are called dinoflagelates.
 
   Back in our kayaks our guide gave us an educational an entertainig chat in which he explained that "bioluminiscency" is the result of mitosis, cell division in which the nucleus divides into nuclei containing the same number of chromosomes, resulting in two identical microorganism. This is so because dinoflagelates are unicelullar. It's this process what produces the crackling sound under water. Yet, he says, the cause of bioluminiscence is not completely known.
 
   "They are marine fireflies," I concluded in silence..
 
   Back in our kayaks our guide gave us an educational an entertainig chat in which he explained that "bioluminiscency" is the result of mitosis, cell division in which the nucleus divides into nuclei containing the same number of chromosomes, resulting in two identical microorganism. This is so because dinoflagelates are unicelullar. It's this process what produces the crackling sound under water. Yet, he says, the cause of bioluminiscence is not completely known.
 
   "They are marine fireflies," I concluded in silence.
 
   The guide also talked about the different ecosystems surrounding the lagoon which located in the northeastern tip of the Island.
 
   After the chat we rowed around the lagoon, with the bottoms of our kayaks glowing as we darted through the water as if they were neon lights flashing and with the shooting star fish swimming in the liquid dark sky under us until we got back to the canal and returned to Las Croabas.
  
   On the ride home, while we conversed about many things I couldn't avoid the brilliant flashbacks of the Las Cabezas de San Juan experience.
 
   For more information you can call us at 787-397-9815 or email us at manager@venapuertorico.com

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