|
|
The Nurse's Office
|
| |
Richard's Vacation Saga
Monday 1/15/01 Sunny, clear, cool - all augurs well for a great day. In a few hours we'll be in Puerto Vallarta. Slept during most of the flight. Suddenly we're there and it's a warm (75-80) balmy day. Then off to the hotel via taxi through what's known as Nueva Vallarta - a combinations of big American-style hotels, small shopping centers, flea markets. It's very boring: but suddenly the taxi turns into Paseo Diego Ordaz, the main south-bound street of Vieja Vallarta (Old Vallarta) and I feel at home again. Nice dinner at the gay restaurant in town; then to sleep. What a joy to see the familiar things I have grown to love about this city.
Tuesday 1/16/01 Return to this beautiful place and its enchanting people. Rejoicing to hear Spanish again, though mine remains in its "hit and miss" state. Mass at La Guadalupe. I feel at home even among all the other tourists and vacationers. Beggars in front of the church - a chance to give not just a couple of pesos but a blessing as well. The look of happy surprise is a blessing to me as well. Was able to get a Spanish language prayer book so I was able to participate more fully in the Mass. During communion a woman with a voice like a reedy trumpet started to sing Bendito, bendito sea Dios - Blessed, blessed be God. How blessed is God to bring me this third time to this place that blesses me in body and soul. I could never in a million years give enough thanks. Thinking/praying: Scully, Moni, Christopher, Kemuel .... so many around me - plus Jerry! God is very good to me. The Christmas carol asks: Who could not love Thee, loving us so dearly? There are so many children here. It's wonderful to see them be just that. Sad - the poor who come to town from the mountains to beg for a few pesos. From their features it's easy to see that they are descended from an ancient and proud people. Very sad that their civilization, except for some artistic remnants here and there, is all but wiped out. These pobrecitos make me want to cry. The place we're staying at is just plain fabulous by comparison - every amenity. What a nice surprise it was to return to the hotel after an excellent dinner at a true precio barato by American standards (about $40 for two) to find fresh hibiscus flowers and some little chocolates on our beds which the camarista had turned down for us. I love this kind of stuff. I guess if I had a bazillion bucks could very easily get used to living like this - but then there is the haunting specter of those beggars. Prayed for Scully and all my Dr. Drew friends and for my parish at Mass today. Put a candle up at church for them. I am so grateful that I know so many loving people. I felt themr collective presence surrounding me while I was at Mass. Words fail at moments like these. We have a jacuzzi on the balcony at our hotel and last night Jerry and I "took the waters" together. We need more of this. We've let time or familiarity rob us of such intimate and healing moments. We do get on each other's nerves sometimes, but we do have each other still and this is a blessing. Underneath all the daily BS of life I am a very happy man - or could it be the "magic" of this place? Whatever ... happiness is happiness. It's about 9.30pm - a balmy night and the sound of the waves breaking on the shore is more beautiful to me than all the music I've ever heard. I think I'm in love.
Wednesday 1/17/01 At Mass today I couldn't help but observe how many people are hungry for God, for that Spirit within and without, for holy sustenance. We yearn for that which will lift us out of ourselves and into the integrity, the wholeness which saves us from ourselves. Mexico is a country steeped in faith simple and uncomlicated. And it's not just because of the Roman Catholic church. The faith of these people goes much farther back in history than the rather rude arrival of Spanish Catholics. It's something like 9pm más o menos. Just got back from a wonderful dinner at the one gay restaurant and it was nice to see so many same-gender couples - not to mention the very handsome waiters. Ours was particularly good looking and utterly charming. Don't see many obviously gay people here. So now I sit on our 19th floor balcony listening to the sound of the surf. Peaceful. Healing. I think my favorite thing to do here in PV, aside from daily worship, is to sit in the Plaza Municipal and just people-watch. As I enjoy a vacation, the city's life goes on around all the tourists and vacationers. Mothers with little kids in tow, "ancient" women selling stuff, school kids in their uniforms, old and young all going about their daily business. It's wonderful to watch. Lit a candle at church for the people who love and care for me. Picked up a couple of little religious articles for friends. There's a ton of places to buy these things here, and I have a favorite tienda which I discovered last time here while wandering around. For someone like me who loves "holy hardware" it's a paradise. Saints, crucifixes, Virgin Marys, rosaries, devotional books wall-to-wall. The proprietor spoke no English but with my very broken Spanish I was able to negotiate my needs and the transaction pretty well. Had the stuff blessed by the priest I call Father Mumbles because that's what he does when he celebrates Mass. It's practically impossible to discern which language he's speaking. Of course, the fierce echo in the church doesn't help things a bit. Anyway, he's a nice guy and was happy to pray with me over these things. I wonder whant he'd do if he knew I'm a Lutheran. But God is God and I don't think God cares too much about these ecclesiastical fine points - and as far as I'm concerned the Lord's Supper (Mass, Eucharist) is the Lord's Supper and available to all the baptized; and probably, because God is so generous, available to all who discern it as the special thing it is. These things a best left to theologians to figure out intellectually for that very well may be where there religion lies. My own personal religion is for me an affair of the heart and I couldn't even begin to explain it intellectually. "Different strokes for different folks." Perhaps this is why the religion here appeals to me. It comes from peoples' hearts and from their own experience. When spontaneous song erupts during Mass here I can't help but be moved to tears. We European types need to loosed out ecclesiastical corsets big time. I think we often miss the wonder and mystery of faith by holding it all in - seems dumb to me. From our balcony at night the lights across the bay look like a strand of diamonds suspended in space. It's overcast tonight so I can't tell where the water ends and where the land begins. I know they're just light but I'll go for the diamons in space approach anyway. I feel very "at home" tonight. "Things" are starting to sort themselves out and I know that I will not be the same person when I return to San Francisco. Changes happening deep within - good stuff.
Thursday 1/18/01 It rained "cats and dogs" this morning and was a bit drizzly all day so no sun and surf alas - but it didn't stop me from trooping into town to get Jerry's watch fixed at what seems to be the only watch repair shop in the entire city. The shop is about the size of a postage stamps and sort of ragged around the edges. No English spoken by the friendly man and woman at the shop but I managed through some pantomime and my broken Spanish to tell them the problem which they fixed for a mere 10 pesos (about a dollar). Then I was on my way to Mass through puddles everywhere. It was an unexpected adventure and I thoroughly enjoyed it. The buses here are something else. They run about every 10 minutes and are a little rickety - the older ones are like converted school buses devoid of shock absorbers. The drivers careen the winding highway like men possessed. It's sort of like riding a motorized buckboard. For 3 pesos 50 centavos (about 35 cents) it's worth the thrill. I was very moved at Mass today. We didn't have Father Mumbles but a priest who spoke clearly and slowly. It helped a lot during his brief sermon on the Week of Prayer for Christian Unity which begins today, and the people sang out with gusto in spite of the pouring rain. The religious devotion here is remarkable and what I like is that the church isn't filled with only with old women, but with people of all ages who value their religious faith. Put a candle up for my beloved friends and for Jerry. As I was at prayer I sensed the presence of these dear ones who come from just about every religious/spiritual tradition from Pagan to the most orthodox Christian. I truly love these people just because they are who they are and each one enlarges my own faith. On my way back from church I stopped at a local internet cafe to send a note or two and leave a post at drDrew.com just to touch base with many of them. Funny how you can miss people you've never met face-to-face. The daily prayer time though keeps them close to me and this is the most important thing. All I can hear right now is the sound of the waves beating against the shore - very calming. I think it's time for sleep - my favorite activity.
Friday 1/19/01 Sitting in the Plaza Municipal on a bright sunny morning. How can I describe this lovely "Old Town" with its one or two steps-up sidewalks, its cobblestone streets, its painted cement buildings? It's just old and has a charm all its own. A lot of things need repair by U.S. standards but the people seem content with things as they are. There are about two traffic lights in the Old Town. The rest of the time you just have to be brave and step into oncoming traffic to cross the street. Drivers will stop. It's almost like a game. The residents just cross, tourists tend to be not so brave and I've had to encourage more than one. The sky is the bluest I've ever seen - a few clouds way off in the distance seem to be there just for a little bit of decoration. Looks like no rain today. Everyone's going about his/her business and the streets are begignning to fill with tourists who poke around this or that shop for the perfect trinket to take home with them. The plaza has a central bandstand-like gazebo with a fancy wrought iron fence. It's surrounded by metal benches which have been painted so many times that the clurlicues look like designs on a wedding cake. Six painted lamposts crowned by dragons with lamps depended from their lower jaws complete the central array. There are several planted areas with the same painted benches at their edges and a small fountain which hasn't worked in the last three years as far as a know. It looks like a giant birdbath. Of course, there are the omnipresent pigeons strutting about looking for whatever food they can find. Good luck, pigeons! I'm off to Mass. It was Father Mumbles again today but we had the hurdy-gurdy sound of the electronic organ which added a special dimension. It's the best they have and it's part of what their notion of heaven must be like. Indeed this church shows that at every turn - from the marble and golden altar with its image of Our Lady of Guadalupe as the prominent feature to the statues of Mary at the cross dressed in black velvet with a black mantilla, a silver sword piercing her heart as she gazes in grief at the dying Jesus all dripping with blood. From an American viewpoint it all seems a little overblown - but it still has a way of touching the heart. An interesting devotional practice here is creeping to the sanctuary on one's knees. When I see it I feel drawm to the religious ecstacy in the hearts of those who practice this devotion. I just watched two women do this. It might be a "magic" practice to us but it is very real and excruciatingly honest. I believe these people really do see into heaven. At the rear of the church sits this woman who looks about a thousand years old. She sells the world's worst chewing gum along with various candies and other sweets. I can't resist buying the gum (1 peso = 10 cents sort of) from her and giving her a blessing. Today this abuela smiled so sweetly at me by way of thanks. It was a blessed moment for both of us. Jerry and I just got back from dinner at an astonishingly good restaurant. First-class cuisine, excellent service, good prices, and live music performed by an apparently professional group of six men. This city is filled with suprises like this. I am having the time of my life - best vacation ever.
Saturday 1/20/01 Sitting is front of the church wondering why the plastic Christmas poinsettia is still haging over the front entrance. Well, it's Mexico after all and things just work differently here. So why not a plastic poinsettia a little out of season? Who cares? It acutally does have a certain charm all its own. Am able to email friends from here for not too many pesos. Sent six emails and posted at drDrew.com a couple of times for a mere 35 pesos (about $3.50) - not bad. Several internet spots here which make communication with friends easy. The one at the hotel is nice but only has two stations and there's and ton of business/professional types who want time. Hotel costs 50 pesos for 30 minues. About five bucks isn't bad, but the downtown place is cheaper and has 12 stations - no waiting. There's a man sitting across from me in the small plaza-like street in front of the church who has "classic" Indian features - he's astonishingly beautiful. The racial/ethnic mix here is very interesting. Just about everyone has jet black hair and either dark brown or black eyes - but the facial features and body structures clearly show the intermix of native and Spanish ancestry. The most beautiful to me are the people who have the most pronounced Indian featrues. A group of French tourists just hove into view and are learning about the story of Juan Diego and in visionary experience of the much-revered Virgen de Guadalupe. I think it's way cool that pictures of the Holy Mother in this aspect show her with Indian rather than European features. After all, the story says she appeared to and Indian. Even so, everyone is proud that this vision happened in Mexico and La Guadalupe is regarded my Mexicans and both Empress of Mexico and Queen of the Americas (or it could be the other way around). A gay note: One restaurant, one tienda de ropas, one resort, and one disco club which prodly displays the rainbow colors. We are indeed everywhere. Today at Mass was the blessing of a quinzeañera - a 15 year old girl's "coming out", a rite of passage in Latin America. Young women in lovely gowns and hairdos and klutzy teenage guys in ill-fitting rented tuxedos and pomaded hair. The organist is attempting The Grand March from "Aïda". It's definitely not ny aesthetic, but I can't helped being touched by these constoms. La Quinzeañera looks wonderful in her pink satin fussy gown and faux pearl tiara. The bouquet of white flowers she carries adds the final touch. I don't really understand any of this but I love it - another Pto. Vallarta highlight. From a balcony on the little street/plaza in front of the church hangs this pink plastic banner serving as an ad for GrafiSigns. It has some roses on it and a pair of praying hands. The sign reads: Santissima Guadelupana nosotros tu hijos te damos las gracias por todos y cada una de tus bendicciones - Most holy virgin of Guadalude we your children give you thanks for each and every one of your blessings. I'm not too sure of the theology here, but I sure can't fault the obvious devotion the signs reflects. It's Mexico after all. Back at the hotel I walked the beach a few times and took note of the young Mexican dudes in charge of the parasailing business here. Young, slim, sun-bronzed bodies - a nice treat at the end of this "National Man Watchers' Week". I also took note of how glad I am to be in a place where I don't have to hide my 60 year nold overweight body. No one seems to give a damn about such things here. If I were in a gay place it might be very different. To repeat myself, the hotel we're staying at is tip-top - every amenity you can think of: little sweets treats appear in the room daily, freshly ironed sheets every day, towel changes two or three times a day, concierge services - and in the part we're at a hearty breakfast and a nifty cocktail hour with a wonderful array of munchies. It's a place to be pampered. I could live like this for ever. A small squadron of pelicans just flew by en route to where ever pelicans go at the end of the day. It's magic! .. Just got back from dinner at one of our favorite restaurants here and I'm sitting on the balcony listening to the sound of the waves interlarded with music from some dinner thing for one of the many groups that come here for conferences/meetings. Sitting out on the bay is what appears to be some sort of pleasure boat all lit up for whatever's happening there. The sky is reasonably clear so I can see the stars tonight. It generally gets overcast at night so to see the stars is a special treat. One star is brighter than all the others and stands like a single diamond. Have I already said the word "magic"? In the distance an airplaine has just taken off from PV's tiny airport and is slowly melting into the night sky. We had a particularly charming waiter at the restaurant - charming and good looking in the bargain. He chatted with us for a little while attending to us. Don't see many clearly gay men here so his presence was particularly pleasing. He noted that he like to music in the background so I asked if he'd like to dance. He declined, saying that his dance partner would be along later - the partner being "he" of course. Every day brings new and delightful surprises. Jerry and I took a walk downtown after dinner and poked around a couple of shops for a little bit. I noticed lots of kids who don't seem apparent during the day. The children here have their own special beauty that goes far beyond any physicial characteristics. They take pleasure in the simplest kid's games which they play on the sidewalks complete oblivious to anything going on around them. I guess they're like kids anywhere but it's the joy in simple things that makes them so appealing. It doesn't take much to make them laugh. The sky has suddenly become overcast so the stars has disappeared, even the lone bright one has gone. But it was nice to have at least a little "sky show" tonight. Interesting moment in a little tienda today. Went in to buy a small notebook and greeted the proprietress in Spanish as I showed her my purchase. "Ocho y cincuenta," she said, telling me the price. As I reached into my pocket to get a 20 peso note she said to me in perfect English, "Wait, that change in your hand, you have 10 pesos there." She took the coin and returned change to me. I responded, "Mi español no es bueno," but I thanked her in Spanish and she said "You're welcome" to me in English. We enjoyed a moment of laughter together and off I went. The music from the dinner thing below has suddenly changed to "Rock Around the Clock" - my signal to go inside. Buenas noches, amigos.
So ends week one with it's times of surprise, times of blessing, times of laughter, times of worship.
* * * * *
Sunday 1/21/01 It's a stunningly clear and sunny morning and the temperature is starting to go up. Some people have already staked their claims on the beach and around the pool. Birds are flying around looking to nab a quick snack from breakfast left-overs on the patio beneath. The waves make their own thundering but calming music. As the sun continues its morning climb into the azure sky the shadows of the palm trees grow shorter and shorter and the bay grows bluer and bluer. Should anyone ask where we're staying it's the Camino Real. We like the club section because for the $300.00 (US) we're paying per day we get breakfast -- as much as you can eat -- and cocktail time; plus this section isn't in direct sunlight so the rooms are naturally cool because of the terrazo floors and the thick plaster walls. The birds, apparently fortified by whatever food they could snatch are flying about and chirping happily away. Some boats have appeared on the bay, headed for who know what adventures. Mismaloya isn't too far to the south. The famous film Night of the Iguana was made there so it's a big tourist attraction. The movie set still stands. At least one boar is obviously headed there -- though you can also get there by bus or car easily enough. Me? I'd probably prefer the boat ride since I like the water so much. Haven't been able to talk Jerry into going there by any means of conveyance yet, but we have another week here. I'd like to take the bus because it's an adventure -- nothing quite like a Pto. Vallarta bus ride. The church was filled to overflowing at Mass today and even the squalling children didn't dampen the peoples' devotion or attentiveness. It's all part of the way things are here. Back home it's quite something else. I think we're just too staid for our own good. Except for the hordes of tourists, Pto. Vallarta is pretty quiet on Sundays and many of the shops are closed. It seems to be a church and family day. Would be nice if it were that way in San Francisco. Guess you just can't have everything. Got back to the hotel around 2pm to find Jerry by the pool lolling in the hot sun which seemed particularly unrelenting today. After a short hello I went to our room and changed into beach attire, walked the beach a few laps and then lolled in the sun a little myself. The hot sun and faint breeze felt good against my skin and I'm beginning to notice a slight sun tan developing instead of the ten gazillion freckles which always appear when I've been in the sun for a little while. Looks good, feels good. Off to an excellent authentic Mexican restaurant for dinner and live music. Delightful! Now I'm sitting on our balcony admiring the many stars in the clear sky tonight. I can pick out constellations but I couldn't name them if you paid me. It looks like someone just threw a bunch of diamonds on a piece of black velvet. The surf sings its healing song and all I can do is to thank God for so many blessings which have come my way. Estoy muy contento. When we got back to our room after dinner the beds had been turned down and yellow hibiscus and some chocolates lay on the pillows. For me this is utter luxury. The hotel is especially quiet tonight -- and added treat. Guess a lot of people leave on
Sunday. Lit a candle and said prayers for my loved ones today. I'm so grateful to know so many wonderful and remarkable people. All -- and I do mean all -- things considered, it's great to be alive and to have these "away times".
Monday 1/22/01 When spontaneous song breaks out at Mass it's like the finger of God touching my heart. I can never hold back the tears -- llores de alegría. The cirrus-clouded western sky is a glowing peach color as the sun begins to set behind the hills just beyond Mismaloya. Sitting on the balcony and thinking of the many friends I have and how blessed I am to know each one of them and how very special each one is. Was deeply touched to get an e-mail from Moni today thanking me for remembering her during this extraordinary vacation. There's a small river that courses through Pto. Vallarta and if you know where to find the two rickety suspension foot bridges you're in for the time of your life as you try to navigate them since they bounce and sway while people cross. They're infinitely more fun than the other bridges constructed for vehicles as well as people. I say: go for the fun. The setting sun is reflected in the windows of the hotels at the far end of the bay turning them, the windows, to a fiery orange color. Way cool! What a place this is. Over the last few days I've been able to give a little help to some US tourists about the buses. When they asked if I live here in Pto. Vallarta I said, "I wish I did." Well, maybe someday. Who knows? My Spanish is improving poco a poco and I hope to be fairly fluent by the time we return next year. Got to get those tapes out and set to it in earnest. Also there's all the Spanish-language TV at home. I understand someone I know learned Spanish by watching the Spanish-language soaps and other shows. Actually it's not hard to learn; just have to buckle down and do it. Just got back from dinner at the hotel's Italian restaurant to find the room prepared as usual by the camarista -- beds turned down, fresh bright yellow hibiscus flowers of the pillows. They think of everything here. This afternoon a young a rather good-looking servador delivered a little plate of sweet treats for us. I don't know which charmed me more, the treats or the handsome dude -- but I think the latter. When a Mexican guy is handsome it's really "drop-dead gorgeous" to me. One thing the people here all have in common is a beautiful smile. Doesn't matter whether they're good-looking or not -- the smiles are wonderful. The Spanish word for smile is sonrisa -- makes me think of our English word sunrise. Sitting on the balcony right now wrapped in the serape I got here a couple of years ago. It's a little cool tonight. There's that superbright star again gleaming through a slightly overcast sky. How many times have I said the word "magic" already? I just looked up from my writing to see a brief fireworks display across the bay. Don't know what it's all about, but it sure was cool. The sound of the surf is particularly hypnotic tonight, so it's off to Dreamland.
Tuesday 1/23/01 Well, today was something else again. After breakfast Jerry mentioned that we might have to move. The whole idea of it was more than a little unnerving; but when I was at Mass today I had a clear sense that will will work out to the best advantage and a feeling of great calm came over me. Guess it doesn't pay to worry about things because that's looking on the dim side. Better to look toward the light since the solution to problems is always to be found there. Lit a couple of candles at church today -- one by way of acción de gracias for God's never-failing love and care, the other for the women in my life -- with a special remembrance for Moni and Scully who have become more precious to me than all the gold in the world. Have started to notice a small number of same-gender couples at the hotel. It's nice that we can come here and be treated with the same respect as our straight counterparts. This is truly a blessing. After Mass today I treated myself to some ice cream and sat in front of the city hall just watching people come and go. Poked around my favorite tienda de articulos religiosos feeling I wanted to pick up something for a couple of folks back home, but didn't actually purchase anything and left with a feeling of a job undone. Interesting that when I check my e-mail at the hotel there was a note from MW asking me to pick up a statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe for her. Wrote back saying that the statues are cheap plaster and would probably break into a bazillion peices in transit -- but I will get a picture for her. Seems that La Guadalupe is her favorite "incarnation" of the mother of Jesus. So a pic it will be. Rode what are probably the ricketiest buses to and from town today. I think they are utterly devoid of shock absorbers, but that's all part of life here and it's kind of fun anyway. During Mass the priest gave a sermon and he spoke slowly enough sot hat I could get at least the gist of what he was talking about: the most important thing for Christians is to stay faithful to God's Word, not just the Bible but what we believe to be the Living Word -- Jesus. It helped me a great deal. Music at Mass was accompanied by the hurdy-gurdy sounding organ which for reasons I can't understand always brings tears to my eyes. It's the very best they have and the organist goes about his ministry with a great deal of gusto. Can't fault people for giving the best they have, especially in worship. I'd feel the same way if I were a Jew or a Muslim or, yes, a Pagan. Faith and worship are about giving the best you have to that which is within and without us, that Spirit which shows us we're better than we think we are. We only have a few more days here so I took my time returning to the hotel after Mass. Wandered around the cobble-stone streets and looked at every building to impress on my memory the unique beauty of Pto. Vallarta. Even though things seem ragged at the edges there is a special pride the people take in their city. The streets are clean and it's not at all unusual to see people actually washing down the sidewalks in front of their homes and businesses. And you just don't throw trash on the sidewalks or in the gutters. It's just not done. Along the Malecón which is like a boardwalk, except it's paved, is a number of bronze sculptures done by a local artist. These range from a representation of dolphins to a collection of fantastical creatures. My favorite is a chair the feet of which are all different -- a human foot, a sneaker, a claw, and something I can't really identify. The nice thing about these sculptures is that you can touch them, sit on them, climb all over them. It's art meant to be enjoyed with as many senses as possible. Laid in the sun for a while when I got back to the hotel -- then off to cocktail time after a very refreshing shower. Had a piña colada that made me un poco borracho. I'm the world's cheapest drunk, which is probably a good thing. I'm nuts for piña coladas but one is more than enough. Then it was off to dinner at a neat restaurant on the banks of the Rio Cuale which runs through part of the city. After dinner I noticed I didn't have the exact amount of pesos for our taxi ride back to the hotel -- the cabbies never seem to have change somehow. Jerry and I looked at each other in dismay so I suggested that I buy some little thing. Popped into one of the many silver shops and picked up a cross with a Celtic motif for a mere 120 pesos (about $10 US). It just caught my eye because it's slight imperfections clearly show it was fashioned by hand. Handmade is always more beautiful because it's never 100% perfect. Well, it's about 10.30pm and I'm getting a little sleepy. Buenas noches.
Wednesday 1/24/01 Sitting in front of the church after Mass watching a man and his children feed a flock of very happy pigeons. The church has three towers you can see from here. The church itself is constructed of bricks and stones held together by cement. The central tower houses the church bells and has a central stained glass window depicting the vision of Juan Diego to whom it is believed that Virgin Mary apeared in the 16th century. Atop the tower is a large metal crown supported by angels. It has a globe and a cross on its top. These are lighted at night and the tower can be seen clearly from many parts of the city. This tower has become one of the principal emblems of Pto. Vallarta. All three towers have a peculiar baroque character to them, with some curlicues and open widows through which you can see a bell. The church bells actually ring when a rope is pulled. The bells also ring the quarter-hour since they are connected to the clock in the central tower. It's the custom here to make the Sign of the Cross when you pass in front of the church. I love this place of worship and the devotion of the people. Their religion is pure, simple, direct. I learned today that almost 90% of the people are Roman Catholic and that the vision of Juan Diego has deep religious and cultural meaning for the people. I wish I were gifted with the ability to draw so I could place a picture of the church here since I'm not all that gifted with the ability to write descriptive themes. At Mass today we heard the Gospel reading about the parable of the sower who tossed seeds willy-nilly. Some fell among the rock and took no root, some in soil that wouldn't support growth, some in fertile soil which produced a rich harvest. The priest explained that we should be that rich soil since the seed stands for the Word of God. He also explained why we make the Sign of the Cross on forehead, lips, and heart when the Gospel is announced. This is so we may understand God's Word, be ready to proclaim it, and hold it in our hearts. This triple-signing is a custom which would be nice for Lutherans to adopt. Guess we're too "protestant" for such popish practices. Too bad, because I think we're missing out on something here. It's a little after 10pm and we just got back from having dinner at one of Pto. Vallarta's five star restaurants -- a perfect ending to a perfect day, and it only cost us about $55US for the two of us. I told Jerry that aside from my desire to visit Germany someday, Pto. Vallarta is the vacation place for me and we must come back again next year. Didn't do much of anything this afternoon when I got back from Mass. Dilly-dallied on the beach and watched a couple of iguanas sunning themselves on the rock then took a short nap before cocktail time. Wish we could stay another week or so, but there are thing that need attention back home. Even so, I'm thankful that we have a couple of more days here. This has been the all-time best vacation I've ever had in my whole life. Right now I'm sitting on the balcony watching a cruise ship across the bay sail off to its next destination. It's a very pretty sight against the dark night sky.
Thursday 1/25/01 Just overheard one of the many walking-tour guides say that 95% of Mexicans are Roman Catholic and the other 5% are priests. In fact, it's 89% Roman Catholic with the remainder belonging to various Christian denominations, Mormons, Jews, Muslims, even Krishna devotees. That Mexico is a country of faith cannot be denied. A word about the tour guide: beautiful. Prominent Indian features, hair as black as ebony and smooth as silk, skin like newly smelted bronze. I find the American tourists here to be quite amusing. They seem to forget that they're really in a foreign country though they often seem befuddled -- and they jsut love to buy stuff. Of course this helps the economy of what is in reality a third-world country. Mexico is not rich and the US and Canadian dollars and the Deutschmark are most welcome. Rate of exchange: $1 US = $9.50 Mex. Interesting feature here are the dogs who wander around at will. They're completely oblivious to the multitudes of people. They look reasonably well fed but a bit bedraggled what with no one really to look after them. While walking to church today I passed by the local AIDS organization's office. Said a quick prayer of thanks for this much-needed ministry. Something at Mass today -- A woman, obviously a widow, took her place at a kneeling bench in front of the sanctuary. Her family was in attendance. After Mass the hurdy-gurdy organ burst forth with "Oh, how we danced on the night we were wed. We vowed our true love, though a word wasn't said." Did I ever cry. Would that gay people could sing that song someday. Outside the church I stopped one of the women in the celebration party and asked her what the celebration was all about to find out the it is her mother's 100th birthday. How appropriate in this country to begin such a celebration in church. I still can't stop crying. It's a very happy day. I love these people. Another walking tour just ambled by and the guide noted that the church is 95 years old. Some more special moments today -- When I stopped to buy a lollipop from the granny at the back of the church I traced the Sign of the Cross on her forehead and said "Dios te bendiga" (God bless you.) She looked into my eyes, smiled a toothless smile and said the same to me as she touched my cheek softly with her hand. I nearly left the ground to fly to the heavens. What a blessed moment. I don't think I'll ever forget this abuela. Second neat thing was a fresh pineapple frozen yogurt purchased at a small frozen yogurt shop by the church. The woman there put a chunk of rock solid frozen yogurt together with some fresh frozen pineapple chunks into a contraption which mixed the two to make something like a snow cone only smoother. It was utterly delicious -- and only cost about a dollar. I'd love to know how that machine works; but I might rig up something at home with the blender. Third cool thing happened when I was in the hotel's small internet cantina. I noted to the young man there what a nice hand-crafted ballpoint pen he was using. It looks like a man wearing a typical sombrero and is painted in bright colors. Without a second's hesitation he handed the pen to me and said, "It's yours." I was quite astonished by his gesture and thanked Leon (his name) all over the place. "A souvenir," I added. "Un recuerdo de Leon." He smiled as only Mexicans can smile and said, "Si, un recuerdo -- un poco regalo." (a little present). I know the pen will run dry one day but the memory of the moment will remain fresh because the pen will find its way to my small trove of special treasures. Leon, by the way, is alarmingly handsome and may even be gay (just a hunch). He's seen me access at least one gay website a couple of times -- well, who knows? Anyway, it was way cool of him to give me the pen. After dinner tonight Jerry and I were walking through downtown and noticed another rainbow flag flying proudly over yet a second gay disco. You just couldn't miss it since a spotlight was purposely focused on it. Yes, friend Scully, it's a rainbow world right enough. What a super day it's been!
Friday 1/26/01 Just got back from Mass. Got a blessing for safe travel from the priest. We leave for San Francisco tomorrow. Everyday at noon the church bells play Schubert's "Ave Maria" a little out of rhythm and with a few notes missing -- but who cares? In the little shed where the taxi drivers sit at the hotel is a picture of none other than La Guadalupe before which a prayer candle burns day and night. This simple thing is very moving to me just because of its eloquent quiet simplicity. Sitting by the pool watching two kids play some wonderful combination of synchronized swimming and "monster in the water" with an inflated dolphin which they believe to be a whale. Why not? The imagination of kids is wonderful. I think we adults have forgotten to play like kids. Pity. Have a bit of a hangover from a couple of margaritas at cocktails yesterday. Just can't manage that hard liquor much anymore. Am I getting old? Used to be able to drink people under the table and bounce right back the next day. Just don't have the tolerance for alcohol anymore, and it's probably just as well. One thing I've found interesting here at the hotal is that so many men talk about business while the women relax and enjoy themselves. How come we men don't allow ourselves to do the same? - Just got back from dinner at the hotel's excellent La Perla restaurant and have begun pre-packing for out leave-taking tomorrow afternoon. It's hard to leave this wonderful city and its delightful people. Everyone is so nice here -- must be in their blood or something. One thing I've learned is that when walking past shops in town, especially at night, is not to stop and peep in the windows unless you want someone to leap out at you to sell you something. It's a little aggressive I'd say. You just have to give the impression that you know exactly where you're going and what you're going to do when you get there. It stops shop keepers from putting "the bite" on you. I know that people have to make a living, but the aggressive approach turns me right off. I did do some purchasing at religious article shops where the folks aren't at all aggressive. These are very cool places. I mean, how many people (tourists) are going to buy pictures of saints or rosary beads or crucifixes or other such devotional items? The locals mostly go to these tiendas so they're pretty low-key and you can poke around to your heart's content, and no one tries to strong-arm you into buying anything at all.
The Story of Juan Diego and the Beautiful Lady -- with some reflections. It is believed by Roman Catholics that in 1531, Juan Diego, an Indian peon who worked for the local bishop, saw a vision of what he, Juan, described as a "beatiful lady surrounded by a cloud of light." The lady told Juan that she was the Mother of God and that he was to go to the bishop and tell him that she wanted a place of worship built at the site of the vision. Juan scurried off to tell the bishop. His Excellency pooh-poohed him. "How could the Mother of God appear to an illiterate peasant?" he queried as he demanded proof of the vision. Discouraged, Juan went back to the place of the vision and the beautiful lady appeared to him again. Juan told her what had happened and that the bishop demanded proof of the vision. The lady told Juan to hold up the front of his tilma, a sort of poncho made of burlap. When he did it became suddenly filled with roses -- most unusual since it was not the season for roses. "Take these to the bishop," the lady said. "He will believe you once he sees these roses." Juan rushed off again to the bishop and when he opened his tilma the roses fell at the episcopal feet. What Juan did not know is that the image of the beautiful lady had become imprinted on his tilma. The bishop believed and caused a church to be built where the lady had indicated. It has been a place of pilgrimage ever since. The tilma, now housed in the cathedral church in Mexico City, has been examined by many experts all of whom have certified that the image on it could not have been painted by human hands. Indeed, so I have been told, when you examine the image's right eye under a magnifying glass you can see the image of Juan Diego reflected there. Of special interest is that the beautiful lady has Indian rather than Spanish features. La Guadalupe is central in the devotional life of Mexican Catholics and has deep spiritual and cultural meaing for the Mexican people, especially the Indians. A reproduction of Juan Diego's vision hangs over the high altar in Pto. Vallarta's Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. Did the vision really happen? Only those who were involved really know for certain. For the rest it's a matter of faith and belief. Personally, I think it did, because Roman Catholics are particularly open to such experiences due to their unique devotion to the mother of Jesus. In Pto. Vallarta the most universal religious icon next the to crucific is La Guadalupe. Pictures of her are everywhere -- and I suspect this is true throughout Mexico and, by extension, all of Central America. Of special note is that such visionary experiences usually don't happen to the high and mighty but rather to the poor and lowly.
It's our last night to be lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves rolling and crashing on the beach. It's been a wonderful time here and I seem to be getting a new perspective on some things. I mentioned to Jerry today that we need to slow down and enjoy life more as opposed to our usual mode of running around all stressed out all the time. There will be lots to do when we get home but I know that I'm only able to put one foot in front of the other in more "measured" steps. Racing around like a lunatic is not a good thing. Buenas noches y gracias a Dios por todos los bendicciones de el.
Saturday 1/27/01 In a few hours we'll be on the plane headed for home. Leaving this place has a certain sadness because I've some to love it so much. But it's always nice to be home too. Even so, I feel that Pto. Vallarta has become something of a second home to me. It's a bright sunny morning and the beach below is filling up with sun worshippers as one of the workers carefully rakes away the detritus which has accumulated since last night. The tide washes in a lot of junk at night. The service at the hotel has been nothing less than five-star and if you're willing to plunk down a bundle of money it's well worth the expense. So far I've noticed about a dozen or so same-gender couples at the hotel -- more than last year. Neat. Jerry's gone down for one last swim in the pool and I'm just about all packed to leave -- just a few last minute items to stow away then off we go. The airport here is microscopic compared to the one in San Francisco. The terminal is crowded and has minimal air conditioning so I hope our flight isn't delayed. I pray for our safety and the safety of all travellers.
Well, we finally made it into the skies after jostling through crowds of people. If I look out the airplane window with my sunglasses on I get a rainbow effect. Pretty cool! We're now above the clouds and the flight attendant has just announced that as soon as we reach cruising altitude she and her cohorts will be coming through the cabin with a "delicious meal". "Today we're serving airplane food," she chirped. I'm glad she told us because I was hoping for filet mignon -- hehe! But actually all this airline ever has is airplane food. The sky is crystal blue clear and the clouds beneath us are like great tufts of cotton. It's a pretty sight. All things being equal, we should be in San Francisco by about 5.30pm PST. One thing (among so many) struck me on this vacation. Americans never seem to realize that even though Mexico is a neighbor it's still a foreign country and things just run differently. All I heard at the airport was much crabbing and grousing by Americans. I've also observed that a lot of college-age men act like deep-dish dorks. I love my country and all, but sometimes I get embarrassed at some of the behaviors of my compatriots. Well, guess I'll just sit back and wait for our sumptuous airplane food to arrive. May as well -- can't dance. [a nap ensues] Just wolfed down the airplane food banquet on a ham and cheese sandwich and some Sabritas. The ham was completely unidentifiable as such except by sight and the delicious cheese had the consistency of cardboard. These gustatory delights were sandwiched between a sliced roll which tasted like frozen cotton -- if that's at all possible. Sabritas are the Mexican version of Lay's Potato Chips -- yet another gourmet delight. The whole feast was washed down by some ginger ale. Nothing wuite like airplane food. Our lunch baskets also contained packets of Chiquita brand banana cookies which I stuffed into my pocket to satisfy future junk food cravings. Jerry didn't eat his either, so I've got two packets -- oh, the joy and glory of it all!
6.30pm - Home.
|
|
|
|
